Here's the gist:
Let’s take a look at a few of the standout drinks on the Pepe LeMoko list:
When’s the last time you had a Grasshopper, that once hugely popular sticky sweet concoction of crème de menthe and cream that gives you a cheap minty blast and raises your glucose levels drastically? (I thought so.) Now, when is the last time you actually had a good Grasshopper. (Uh huh.) Go to Pepe Le Moko. Right now, if you can, or as soon as you can. Order the Grasshopper re-imagined by Morgenthaler. Be amazed.
As one who usually hates the mere thought of that overdone, oversweet mess of a drink, most often consumed by barely-legals (and perhaps not even that) until the sweet stickiness makes them ill, I was forcibly convinced by Morgenthaler (he made me try it!). Quelle surprise: this was a not-too-sweet combination of rich ice cream and good menthe, a touch of crème de cacao for added dimension, and brought into perfect balance with the addition of that bartender’s bitter tipple, Fernet Branca. And this may be the single best use of Fernet Branca as an ingredient I’ve ever enjoyed. Most bartenders have a PBR tallboy with a shot of Fernet Branca, but that’s another story. It’s inclusion here literally makes the drink a home run. Add a touch of salt for more diversity of flavor and serve it up in an old-style soda glass and you have one of the most surprisingly delicious drinks imaginable.
El Nacional
Another drink you seldom see these days is the once hugely popular Nacional, a rum-based drink. Operating on his belief that there’s no such thing as a bad cocktail, just badly made cocktails, Morgenthaler re-created his ideal versions. And it is a reminder that a great cocktail, done with precision and care, remains a great cocktail even if it has faded and been debased over many years of carelessness.
Then there is one of the most maligned, mocked and defamed drinks of all time, the infamous Long Island Ice Tea, usually an excuse to cavalierly throw together some of the cheapest spirit ingredients possible into a Frankenstein’s mishmash of flavors primarily designed to be cheap, highly profitable and to get college kids buzzed as quickly as possible. The “Lahn Gighland” is one of the all time “throwaway” drinks made to appeal to soda pop-trained drinkers.
But not in Morgenthaler’s house. The secret, which is no secret, is to use premium ingredients and pay close attention to the balance of aromas, flavors and textures. If you’re a Long Island Ice Tea fan, have one at Pepe Le Moko: it will remind you of the very first one you had, and why you liked it so much at the time.
The Amaretto Sour
Morgenthaler has bragged, loudly, often, and to anyone who will listen, that he makes the best damned Amaretto Sour in the world (the giveaway might be his article in Playboy humbly entitled “I Make The Best Amaretto Sour In The World”).
Low bar, some might claim, and the thought of such may not inspire you: but remember, a well made drink is the key here. First rule: use no mixes. Thus the ‘sour’ part is fresh lemon juice, not some concocted pre-mix laced with chemicals. Second, use good ingredients; and for every ingredient, there is a choice among bad, mediocre and good, and it makes a difference. Finally, pay attention---close attention---to the overall balance of the drink. Create the drink; don’t just slop some ingredients together. So does he make the best damned Amaretto Sour? Could be; it is an impressive drink. Will it convert me to a steady drinker of Amaretto Sours? No; but as a very occasional drink this is not bad. Not bad at all. (And oddly delicious with a couple of the bocadillo sandwiches, which you really shouldn't miss on the Bar Foods Menu.)
If you're interested, full article here: http://violentfermentation.blogspot.com/2014/05/pepe-le-moko-and-morgenthaler-magic.html