by Clint Hall » Sun May 18, 2014 8:31 pm
I used to swear I never met a Huet Sec I didn't love, but then I stored several cases in the cellar for about a decade, and more, at a temperatured controlled 58 degrees. What traitors! They've turned on me, including some Le Monts and a pair of 1998 Clos de Bourgs that I thought would be singing now. The most disgusting traitors of all, though, are my 2005 LE HAUT-LIEU SECS. Back in 2007, when they were released, my first two bottles were no doubt fine, but the next six, which I opened this year, I poured down the drain and then threw open the window. They were ghastly. I once took a two-day course in wine faults but never tasted anything like this, so I figured the problem was maybe a combination of two or more flaws, and so this weekend I took a bottle to a wine merchant, a distributor, and a winemaker to see what they thought. The consensus: not enough acid, and so the alcohol-sugar-acid ratio was out of balance and I had hung onto the wine too long, they said. A Huet with too little acid? I thought that was an oxymoron. But the winemaker suggested that if I didn't believe him, just put a few drops of lemon juice in a glass of the awful stuff and see if that didn't help. It did help, quite a bit. If I were an alcoholic and this lemon-laced wine were the only booze left in the world I would drink it. To be able to tell my winemaker friend I could do it, I drank two small glasses -- and then poured the rest down the drain.
I know, I know, the conventional wisdom is drink your Haut-Lieus while you wait for your Bourgs to come around, but the old Bourg Secs have let me down, too. I know there are plenty of exceptions, and some of them are bound to show up in this thread, but after my recent string of disappointments I'm not going to spend my money and time looking for one. Mind you I'm not dissing the Huet Demi-Secs and the Moellleux, but from now on I'm going to drink my Huet Secs the first couple of years or so after they are released. And why not. They are delicious young, and the young ones will always have a place in my cellar..
PS. If you every try the lemon juice trick, use only a few drops. More than that and you get something that my wife says "tastes like what I thought a wine cooler tastes like."