The following are my notes on some of the 2005 Beaujolais cru wines that are available in the market now. Each was tasted over the course of an evening, with food and not against each other.
Overall, I’d say this vintage is a lot like the 1999 vintage on the Côte d’Or, that is, lots of fruit with good structure and good potential for the cellar. Wines that drink pretty well on release and, if I had to guess, will never close down completely. In other words, a vintage I like.
Domaine du Vissoux (Chermette)|, Cuvée Traditionnelle VV, carries only a ‘Beaujolais’ appellation but it is beautiful beyond mere words with wonderful, fresh gamay and earth scents; a harmonious palate with nuance and structure and a long finish. Feminine but still assertive; a wine for our time and for all time. About $14; stealing at that price.
Morgon:
The Thevenet has more character and sweeter dark fruit, the Lapierre is more vinous and complex. Both are well made, the edge in concentration to the Thevenet, the edge in texture to the Lapierre.
Others have reported bottles of the Thevenet with brett; I have not experienced those. Others have reported a disjointed showing for the Lapierre and I did not get that even when first opened.
I think both of these will be more developed and complete with 2-5 years in the cellar.
Depending on where purchased, they run $18 to $26/bottle and I would buy either of them again but not in quantity.
Breton: This is lighter and more red fruit in style but has its own charm. A slight saltiness accents the palate. A friend tried another bottle and found it funky and weird.
About $20; I’d buy it again but not in quantity.
Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly:
The Chanrion (Dom. de la Voûte des Crozes), Côte de Brouilly Les Crozes is very lively, fresh and juicy with red and black fruit flavors and a suppleness that is very expressive in the mouth. It can use some time down but is beautiful now. About $14; I’ll buy it in quantity.
The Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vigne is a dark, brooding tannic wine with mostly black fruit flavors and a texture borne of its structure and concentration. This needs cellar time. About $22; I bought it in quantity.
Fleurie:
Dom. du Vissoux’s Poncié may be the richest Beaujolais I have tasted in 2005; concentrated, integrated and smooth, somewhat atypical for Fleurie but still carrying the aromas and flavors of the area. But with roasted chicken and root vegetables this is beyond words; one of the finest wine/food pairings I have experienced. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; I’d buy it again.
The Les Moriers bottling from Dom. Chignard, is not as rich but is rather more etched on the palate and more typical in both texture and aromatic profile. But its structure is very powerful, albeit hiding at the moment, and this needs decanter time now or several years in the cave. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $21; I bought a lot.
Moulin à Vent:
From Dom. du Vissoux, I tasted the Les Deux Roches bottling which is purple, shows a good deal of tannin and structure, is well concentrated and has plenty of acid. It’s in the dark fruit register and pretty closed at the moment. Needs 5 years but has great promise for even longer term aging.
Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $22; I’d buy it again.
Best, Jim
