WTN: Won't a-gris to diss this gris

[Jenise]

2012 Adelsheim Pinot Gris, Oregon
In my little life so far, I've had very few pinot gris, or grigios, from anywhere other than Alsace that reached above the quaffer level. Domestically, I've had good examples from a few Oregon wineries but only one ever, before last night, that I'd call excellent-to-outstanding, and that one came from a small Washington winery near the Oregon border named Bunnell who clearly had/has Alsatian-like ambitions. Such examples being so awfully thin on the ground, it's no wonder the wine world accepts the cheap bar plonk PG image as normal, and in general I do too. It's been a long time since that Bunnell and I've fallen back on not expecting much from the grape. But here's one to take seriously--super seriously. I sat there last night with that glass in my hand going wow wow wow, and right down to the last sip I was saying "I can't get over this". Very pale with a greyish pink hue that indicates some well-deserved skin contact that doesn't come off as extracted or heavy, it offers pear, white peaches, green pea and nutmeg on a frame that's seductively racy and creamy at the same time. Class, cut, complexity and outstanding QPR too; I paid $16--a comparable chardonnay of this quality would cost 2-3 times that.

Wonder if they do a Pinot Blanc ?

For a long time I have thought that Pinot Gris was Oregon's best wine. They just don't like to talk about it, and rather focus on the higher priced pinot noir. It is particularly nice with their local oysters and also their salmon. Another very nice PG is the Maysara Pinot Gris (Total carries it). While the Acrobat (from King Estates) is another tasty wine. Don't get me wrong, their pinot noir will eventually develop into world class wine as well, but that will take a bit more time.

[Jenise]

Richard, Oregon does do well with this grape; I have indeed had many that were good or very good, categorically speaking. But many just taste like ultra-lite chardonnays; they don't collect that extra flavor from the skin that nails true Pinot Gris/Grigio color and typicity in the way that this Adelsheim did so very, very well. Thanks for the tip on the Maysara, if I see it I'll pick it up.

[Jenise]

Richard, just stumbled over this tidbit from an article about some symposiums (one on Chardonnay, one on Pinot Gris) that David Adelsheim, coincidentally, was involved in. It compares the recent history of pinot gris to chardonnay, and mentions a 'glass ceiling' on pinot gris retail price where chardonnay has none. Wouldn't have thought to point that out myself, but it's what I was alluding to in describing the relative value of this particular pinot gris.

Here:

In 1991, the price per ton eclipsed the $1,000 mark for the first time. And in 1998, there were 1,603 acres of Chardonnay planted, which commanded only $1,030 per tons. By 2005, there were only 842 acres of Chardonnay reported in Oregon, the fewest since the 1986 level of 873 acres.

In 2012, the total had climbed to 1,160 acres — virtually the same as 1989. However, the average price per ton was $1,746, nearly double that of 1989.

Meanwhile, the price per ton of Pinot Gris in Oregon from 2012 was $1,350. And the reported Pinot Gris plantings in 2012 stood at 3,426 acres, nearly triple that of Chardonnay.

No ‘glass ceiling’ for Oregon Chardonnay prices

David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyard in Newberg served on the technical panel at the 2014 Oregon Chardonnay Symposium in Dayton. (Photo by ©Andrea Johnson Photography)

David Adelsheim talked of the “glass ceiling of price” of $20 for Pinot Gris during his historical presentation at last year’s Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium, but that barrier doesn’t apply to Chardonnay.

Among those poured at the two-hour grand tasting were the Adelsheim Vineyard 2012 Caitlin’s Reserve ($45), Antica Terra 2012 Aurata, Eola-Amity Hills ($75), Ayoub 2012 Chardonnay ($48), Bergström 2012 Sigrid ($85), Domaine Serene 2011 Evenstad Reserve ($50), Evening Land Vineyards 2010 Seven Springs Vineyard Summum ($90), Soter Vineyards North Valley Reserve Chardonnay ($50) and St. Innocent 2012 Freedom Hill Vineyard Cuveula Liberte Chardonnay ($50).

The average price of the 40 Chardonnays represented was $39....

Jenise, have you tried Eyrie's Pinot Gris? I had their 2010 when I was visiting in 2012, and it was near or less the price you paid for the Adelsheim. It was one of the best wines we tasted during the trip, and I don't mean just amongst the whites. I think it was so notable because we weren't expecting it to be so good - it really was a lovely, unexpected surprise.

Within the category of truly exciting Oregon white wines, I'd add Helioterra Pinot Blanc. Ann makes some great wine (Syrah, Mourvedre, Pinot Noir) but her Pinot Blanc is always outstanding.

When I first met her and she offered to let me taste her PB, I asked if it was more Californian or French---she said, "How about Northern Italian?" Boy, was she right. It has all the advantages of a slightly warm but still cool climate (Oregon) where the grapes get ripe and the cool, acidity-driven briskness of the Alto Adige whites.

Definitely a wine worth seeking out.

Adelsheim Pinot Gris is a stand out in price, quality and availability. Not many wines of any kind do as well in all three categories. Pinot Blanc is a case in point. I've had some very good ones from Alsace and Oregon, but none that does as well on all three markers as the Adelsheim Pinot Gris.

Bought several yesterday and It was everything you said, Jenise, AND a bag of chips. Delicious wine! $20 here though, but I'm going to search the area for a better price so I can take a bunch to the beach.

Drew

Adelsheim Pinot Gris is a stand out in price, quality and availability. Not many wines of any kind do as well in all three categories. Pinot Blanc is a case in point. I've had some very good ones from Alsace and Oregon, but none that does as well on all three markers as the Adelsheim Pinot Gris.

Mention Pinot Blanc to Jenise and you could be in trouble matey .

Nice. I have been down on Oregon pinot gris for a long time. Lots of fine stuff, just not to the level of what you can get for the same price for Europe. That said, on my last trip in February, I had 3 outstanding and interesting pinot gris. Eyrie, Biggio-Hamina and Teutonic. I just drank a bottle of the 2013 Teutonic which clocks in a 10.2% abv. An intriguing wine.

Jason

[Jenise]

Nice. I have been down on Oregon pinot gris for a long time. Lots of fine stuff, just not to the level of what you can get for the same price for Europe. That said, on my last trip in February, I had 3 outstanding and interesting pinot gris. Eyrie, Biggio-Hamina and Teutonic. I just drank a bottle of the 2013 Teutonic which clocks in a 10.2% abv. An intriguing wine.

Jason

Not to belittle the pinot gris, but isn't EVERYTHING by Tuetonic intriguing? A friend is a fan who also reps the wine, and everything he's cracked open for us has been 'out there' on one level or another. Biggio-Hamina is a brand new name though. And Eyrie--Jason is his father's son and making this brand great again. Don't miss a chance to try his sparkling Pinot Munuier (sp?) when he finally puts it up for sale. A few months back we got to taste the first bottle from the relatively few cases he made and it was absolutely amazing.

Not to belittle the pinot gris, but isn't EVERYTHING by Tuetonic intriguing? A friend is a fan who also reps the wine, and everything he's cracked open for us has been 'out there' on one level or another.

Hah. Good point. I finally got to spend some time with Barnaby and Olga. We just did the tasting at their house. Great folks. I look forward to the wine with some age. Who knows how they will be but I am hoping for the best. And love having some wines that are off the beaten path.

Biggio-Hamina is a brand new name though.

Todd Hamina worked under Gary Andrus. He was also the wine-maker at Maysara (momtazi) for a short time. He does lots of different stuff. Always trying something new with good success. He is doing an orange wine with his gris IIRC.

And Eyrie--Jason is his father's son and making this brand great again. Don't miss a chance to try his sparkling Pinot Munuier (sp?) when he finally puts it up for sale. A few months back we got to taste the first bottle from the relatively few cases he made and it was absolutely amazing.

I think Jason is doing great. I'll keep an eye out for the bubbly.

Cheers,

Jason

Taking a bottle to my 87 yo mother's retirement community tomorrow to share with her, as she refers to him as "my gentleman friend"...cracks me up, who likes white wine. Eileen and I will also share, mom doesn't drink. This is a special Mother's Day as May 11 is also my 63rd. birthday so mom and I are going to "Get Down"!

Drew

[Jenise]

Drew, how nice. Love that your mom has a "gentleman friend" under such circumstances and so late in life. It reminds me, with giggles, of spending a mother's day with my grandmother at the nursing home she moved to. At her request, we attended a cooking demonstration involving dates, bacon and a microwave. There was one gentleman on the loose there, a guy named Leo, who repeatedly hit on my grandmother who could not have been less interested (would have been perfectly fine with me if she had, btw). Anyway, after several rebuffs, he started hitting on me. Poor old thing, he was so lonely--I've never forgotten him.

And an early happy birthday to you, too!

Jenise,

I wish you could have tasted the Stone Wolf 2007 vintage. I have a story regarding that win. Of course you might already know the story.