On Thursday, I arrived in Durham to visit with VLM, check out Cave Tureau and dine at Rue Cler. The wines we tasted were the 2012 Huet, Le Haut-Lieu, Sec; 2002 Clos Rougeard, Bréze; and, the 2005 Mugnier, NSG Clos de la Marechale. The Huet was controlled by acid for now, the Bréze slightly spritzy but smelled divine and the Mugnier opened over the course of the evening with nuance and depth.
For those in the area, both Cave Tureau and Rue Cler are a must. A wine shop with so many good choices in the “real wine” categories and a restaurant with a creative and delicious menu.
Finest kind.
On Friday, a quick drive to Greensboro and lunch with the family South (Steve, Barb and Katie) at a local Pho place made for the start of “Rednecks and Rhones.” R & R started about 15 years ago as a gathering of NASCAR fans that liked wine and each other. It has endured, morphed and become an opportunity to visit old friends and make new ones. The ‘rednecks’ don’t watch much racing anymore and the Rhone label is more a suggestion these days. But everybody contributes and it’s a group we know will appreciate the cellar treasures we have accumulated.
Friday evening, starters included the 2002 Puffeney, Savagnin; 1998 Schoffit, Tokay Piont Gris, Rangen VT; and, the 2011 Puffeney, Trousseau, Cuvée Les Bécangères. Each was representative, nicely developed and still full of life.
With the core group in the dining room, beef daube was accompanied by the 1995 and 1998 Chave, Ermitage, Cuvée Catheleen. With the older bottle slightly more resolved, these two had an extraordinary perfume, excellent depth, texture and sustain, and a mounting complexity. World class, in every respect.
With crepes Suzette, we had the 1947 Huet, Le Haut Lieu Moelleux. Amber in color, concentrated and so intense on the nose, lively and fresh in the mouth and arresting length. There was not one hint of tiredness and I think we all felt that this bottle had another several decades to go to peak. Great wine and one for my life list; my first birth year wine.
Saturday included mussels and frites, charcuterie and cheeses on the patio for lunch and a few whites: 2007 McCrea Roussanne, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard; 2002 Tablas Creek, Roussanne; 2006 Copain, Roussanne, James Berry Vineyard.; 1991 Lopez de Heredia, Rioja Blanc, Viña Tondonia; 2000 Qupe Marsanne; 2002 Luneau-Papin, Excelsior. Neither the McCrea nor the Copain impressed (although neither was bad), the Tablas Creek was delicious, the LdH was funky in a good way and a nice treat, the Excelsior was great with the mussels and the Qupe served to remind me just how under-rated this label is, how age-worthy these wines are and how reasonably priced that experience can be.
Dinner was dedicated to domestic Rhone styled wines and a tenderloin of beef and many sides served as a fine backdrop. The wines were: 2009 Ramey, Syrah; 2010 Cowan Cellars, Syrah, Moaveni Vineyard; 2007 Bedrock Syrah, Glenlyon Vineyard; 2000 SQN, In Flagrante; 2003 Dehlinger, Syrah; 2006 Sequel, Syrah; 2007 Salina, Syrah, Heinz Ranch; 2007 Bevan Cellars, Syrah, Dry Stack Vineyard.; 1991 Zind Humbrecht, Tokay Pinot Gris, Heimbourg SGN; and, 1963 Warre’s, Port.
Of the syrahs, the Salina and the Cowan were the only one’s finished by the end of the evening. I thought the Salina was one of the best domestic syrahs I have tasted; it was as balanced, complex and well-made as any syrah could be. And the Z-H SGN was wonderful.
Sunday the festivities started earlier in the day and the theme was the Rhone. White wines included the: 1996 Chave, Hermitage blanc; 2010 Cowan Cellars, Isa; 2012 Grassi, Ribolla Gialla; 2010 Guigal, Condrieu; 2009 Chave Selections, Saint Joseph, Céleste; 2012 Gaillard, Saint Joseph; N/V Chaboud, Saint Peray sparkiling; 2006 Chateau Grillet; 2011 Cave de Tain, Crozes Hermitage. Cheeses, boiled shrimp, mussels, frites, charcuterie, etc. were also served.
The Gaillard was exquisite, energetic and precise; the Condrieu was textbook but lacked verve; the Chave blanc was a bit too oxidized for me but others loved it; the Grillet was weird but benefitted from decanter time; the Grassi was expressive and the Cowan showed well. The rest were not remarkable.
Red wines included the 1996 Voge, Cornas; 1996 Chapoutier, Ermitage, Le Pavillon; 2003 Chave, St. Joseph; 2005 Yves Gangloff, Côte Rôtie; 2010 Chave Selections, Crozes-Hermitage, Silène; 2005 Delas, Côte Rôtie; and, 2005 La Viallière, Côte Rôtie. Lamb, both Moroccan style and smoked were served and many sides. With sweets, the 2003 Christoffel, Riesling Auslese***, Urzinger Würzgarten; and, a 1986 Chave, Hermitage, Vin de Paille.
The Voge was as perfect as anyone could ask and the wine of the night; the Chapoutier was very pretty; the Chave St. Joe was good; the Gangloff was ethereal; the Delas showed above expectations; the La Vialière was rustic but had promise; the Christoffel was a breath of fresh air and the Vin de Paille, utterly unique.
Not a corked wine during the entire event and memories of friends both human and vinous, to sustain us until next year.
Yee haw!
Best, Jim
