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WTN: Mostly 1996 Burgs (including La Tache!)

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Mostly 1996 Burgs (including La Tache!)

by Dale Williams » Tue Jan 28, 2014 2:13 pm

SOBER at Andy’s house last night. He greeted us with a couple bottles of the 1990 Krug. While my taste usually runs more to lighter styled Champagne, this is a really fantastic, crisper and brighter than I would have expected. Deep flavors, spicy, complex. A-

From then on all wines were blind

First flight in the library with sausages and cheese, my first thought was Rhone, but Franco and Dan both got Barolo immediately. Decanted about 3 hours previously

Wine A : Seemed oxidized at first, bounced back, complex nose with barnyard and leather over red fruit, but never lost (to me, others differed) a surprising tired edge. 1971 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo. B/B+

Wine B: Fresh, young, gorgeous fruit with forest floor, mushroom, and tea aromas, just a hint of barnyard. 1971 Conterno “Cascina Francia” Barolo. A-

To the dining table, and a white flight paired with a potato-leek soup with creme fraiche
Wine #1: Ripe, almost tropical, we were puzzled by ripeness thinking Burgundy, very good length, I was impressed. 1999 Kongsgaard Chardonnay B+/A-

Wine #2 Gorgeous complex nose, hazelnut, long, lush but balanced. All I want in white Burg. Craig gets points for guessing Leroy. 1996 d'Auvenay “les Narvaux “ Meursault A-/A

Wine #3 Some oxidative notes but not dying. Nutty, big, a little clunky despite good acids. 1996 Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet B

Bonus Wine: Spicy, lots of citrus notes, good acids, a bit smaller framed than rest of flight. A very nice overachiever. 1996 Dureuil-Janthial Rully B/B+

With a terrine with macerated figs and salad (I think Mark guessed Chambolle on this flight, a question Andy couldn’t answer yes or no, so everyone knew the vineyard- so points to Mark for that)
Wine #4 Very young, full, black cherries, spice. 1996 Jadot Bonnes-Mares A-/B+
Wine #5 This was muted at first pour but opened nicely and became a truly great young Burgundy. Red fruits, smoke, sandalwood, exotic yet pure. 1996 Roumier Bonnes-Mares A/A-
Wine #6 Great nose, a whirl of spices and fruit, but on the palate seemed less attractive than on nose. Still a nice wine. 1996 Vogue Bonnes-Mares. B+

With boeuf bourguignon and noodles
Wine #7: High acids even for 1996, red fruit, some tannin, needs time, overshadowed by flightmates. 1996 d'Auvenay Mazis-Chambertin B/B+

Wine #8 Full, brawny but elegant, red fruit, young, tons of potential but tasty young. 1996 Rousseau Chambertin A-

Wine #9 Some question if corked, I didn’t get, and others decided whatever blew off. I thought great from start- full, extraordinarily long, young, black cherry and mocha, smoke. 1996 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze A-/A

With a nice cheese course (I only had a little Ossua-Iraty, but there was nice Morbier, St Nectaire, Comte, etc)

Wine #10 First bottle corked, replaced by a fresh bottle (cooler and of course no extra time in decanter). Good fruit, high acids, a bit foursquare. 1996 Jayer-Gilles Echezeaux B
Wine #11 Fullest and most open of flight, red fruits, baking spices, a touch sharp; 1996 Rouget Echezeaux B/B+

Wine #12 Tight, tight, tight. I thought this just shut down, others (more experienced than I) just didn’t like. Red fruit, a little ashtray note, but I thought there was something coiled underneath. 1996 Rouget Cros Parantoux B-

Andy wasn’t happy with the last flight so added a bonus wine: lovely, deep cherry and herb flavors, stony minerality, elegance abounding, Mark gets the wine quickly. Omigod. 1996 DRC La Tache A

Dessert Wine: deep deep deep gold color, botrytis notes of honey and apricot, intense and rich. 1996 Doisy-Daene “L’Extravagant” B+/A-

Great night, thanks Andy

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Mostly 1996 Burgs (including La Tache!)

by David M. Bueker » Tue Jan 28, 2014 3:11 pm

Drool
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Re: WTN: Mostly 1996 Burgs (including La Tache!)

by Dale Williams » Tue Jan 28, 2014 3:27 pm

OK, so Andy devised this as an experiment after this Parker comment on a board:
".I would suggest you be careful with 1996 Burgundy....many of the whites are already dead and oxidized and the reds...even the bigger ones, are losing what little fruit they once had and what is left is a skeleton of acidity and tannin(Meadows and merchants are not going to tell you this)...the culprit...at least for the reds, was apparent once the official yields were announced for each village....excessive yields per hectare was a warning sign at the vintage's inception...a prediction..in a decade, the reds will be largely a disaster, and discredited..."

OK, while these '96 whites showed well, we all know re Premox. So some validity there- but the Premox issue seems to have hit every vintage 95-2006 at least to some degree.

But hard to see with the reds. There were some that showed comparatively poorly (especially for the price tags on the J-Gilles and Rougets, but even there not convinced that time won't help) but overall I thought these were great and moving in the right direction. Some there had some mixed experiences with '96s, but while it might not be the most homogeneous vintage, I would call it a rousing success, and have trouble believing these will be "disasters"
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Re: WTN: Mostly 1996 Burgs (including La Tache!)

by David M. Bueker » Tue Jan 28, 2014 4:28 pm

News flash - Parker hates Burgundy.

In other news General Franco is still dead.
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Re: WTN: Mostly 1996 Burgs (including La Tache!)

by Mark Lipton » Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:25 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:News flash - Parker hates Burgundy.

In other news General Franco is still dead.


Well, more specifically, he hates highly structured vintages ('93, '96) in Burgundy and prefers the superripe/low-acidity ones (e.g. '97, '90). No surprise there, as those vintages are the ones that fit the much-publicized "Parkerized" palate.

Now back to talking about wine...

Mark Lipton
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Mostly 1996 Burgs (including La Tache!)

by Jenise » Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:37 pm

I want to meet Andy.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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