NYT: Asimov on Savennières

[Robin Garr]

I'm surprised none of you Loire-heads posted Asimov's article on Savennières yesterday. I thought it was a good piece and realized that I haven't had Savennières for years. He's right about it not being easy, not least that it's a rare white that needs cellar time and generally won't reward the bring-it-home-and-drink-it-now approach.

THE POUR
The Thinking Person’s White Wine
Eric Asimov
The New York Times
Jan. 23, 2014

If you’re looking for a winter-weight white wine, one that’s substantial enough to warm the insides yet elegant enough to dance intimately with many different foods, I’ve got a name for you: Savennières.

I make this recommendation with some trepidation. I love Savennières, but I will concede it’s not particularly likable. That is to say, it’s not an easygoing, friendly sort of wine. It requires a commitment, which is not necessarily a step that everybody wants to take.

I understand the feeling. Just as I often prefer a thriller to a work of literature, I sometimes don’t want to make the effort to ponder a wine. I just want to enjoy it. At those moments, I would leave the cork in the Savennières. But given the proper time, energy and sense of resolve, the rewards of a good Savennières are many.

Full article in The New York Times:

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/29/dining/the-thinking-persons-white-wine.html?ref=dining

Interesting how Asimov kind of dishes on Joly's 2007 Clos de la Culee de Serrant - didn't see that coming. Anybody ever tried it (and/or the Les Clos Sacrés which Asimov liked more) and have thoughts to share?

Interesting how Asimov kind of dishes on Joly's 2007 Clos de la Culee de Serrant - didn't see that coming. Anybody ever tried it (and/or the Les Clos Sacrés which Asimov liked more) and have thoughts to share?

I haven't tried the 07s but I think his view is the conventional wisdom. At least as I've seen it.

Up until not too many years ago, it used to be pretty much unthinkable to drink Savennieres until they had collected a lot of dust in the cellar, but now I'm always uncertain. For instance I haven't run into a Domaine de Closel that seemed like it would age (Asimov mentions the Closel Jalousie, a cheapie), although several Closels have been pleasant shortly after release.

I have to be in a very particular mood to enjoy Closel or Joly, and I agree it's very much a winter white.

Not one word about Baumard; glaring by its absence, IMO.
Best, Jim