Two terrific, though quite different California chardonnays this evening, each could easily be mistaken for a fine white Burgundy:
2009 Clos Pepe Estate Chardonnay ("Hommage to Chablis"), Santa Rita Hills. Bright pale straw. Coconut cream and pinestraw over lean, understated fine lemon fruit on the nose. Firm and direct on entry, opening to a very tightly knit center of lemon pith and light mineral tones, wet stone, supremely dry and razor-balanced with exceptional length. What this lacks in complexity, it more than make up for in balance and clarity.
2007 Landmark Chardonnay, Lorenzo Vineyard, RRV Brilliant pale old gold to a clear edge. Bright lemon chiffon and firm mineral tones, honey, baker’s flour and soft floral accents on the nose. Firm and focused entry to a very bright center of lean lemon-citrus and taut minerality, soft understated oak at the edges and ultrasharp grapefruit acidity beneath lend definition, finely balanced with beyond moderate length.