Notes from a dinner tasting on New Year’s day 2014.
Had three couples over for dinner and served a bunch of wines blind.
With Bulgarian feta with truffle oil:
1999 Bourillon d’Orleans Vouvray Vielles Vignes sec ‘La Coulee d’Argent’ – found this in the cellar and figured it really needed drinking although even the dry chenins can last pretty well. Waxy sweet lemon nose, smooth on palate and some apricot appearing in the finish.
With French onion soup (with lots of gruyere!):
2009 Pfaffenheim Grand Cru Gewurztraminer Steinert – very pretty floral and slight lychee aromas, clean and medium length finish.
With a pithiviers of acorn squash Gruyere cheese and pecans and mushrooms, scented with thyme and sage (I am always on the look out for something that matches well with German wines):
2006 Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese – pronounced varietal petrol nose with undertones of apples and a bit of honeyed sweetness, on palate quite smooth and while off dry, it was very well balanced with plenty of acidity. It went well with the food and should last quite a few years, though it drinks well now.
With katmis satsivi – a Georgian (SSR, not USA) stew of chicken, cilantro, garlic, chile, coriander, two types of paprika, fenugreek, and cinnamon (I love this sort of spice mix with good red wines).
2000 Dom. de Pegau Cuvee Reservee CNduP – I have to say that I nailed this one dead on for wine and year with both my first guesses! That happens so infrequently that I allow myself a moment or two of satisfaction even though I’d tasted this one twice within the last year. Typical unmistakable Rhone nose of tar and garrigue, good weight and medium tannins, medium length and I think still improving. The best bottle of the 3 I’ve tasted this last year.
1998 Vieux Donjon CNduP – totally different nose in this wine – sweeter and with hints of nutmeg and molasses, cherry and garrigue herbs, a very well structured wine with softer tannins that has a long finish and a long life ahead. I think this has now snapped into focus and is drinking near peak, although it has many years to go. I loaded up on this one (a couple of cases) after tasting it on release and I’m very glad that I did. I intend to start reaping the benefits of my foresight (or luck) one cork at a time now.
With cheese – a not quite ripe Vacherin de Mont d’Or and some Stichelton and truffled pecorino:
1991 Quinta do Vesuvio Port – I’d been thinking about trying this or the 1992 for awhile now. Decanted about 6 hours ahead. Deep red colour with a fairly ripe nose of cassis fruit with anise hints, sweet and medium long on palate. Could use a bit more time, but decent showing.
After the cheese, people chatted for some time, an activity that apparently leads to dry throats as they decided that they wouldn’t be averse to performing further raids on my cellar. The next three bottles were pulled straight out of the cellar, one at a time over a couple of hours and served blind.
1995 Santa Duc Gigondas Hautes Garrigues – now fully mature, this nose was classic slightly funky Rhone with sour cherry and raspberry. Now elegant and lighter in colour, it has soft tannin, good acidity and although fairly extracted, it drinks as well now as it ever will (which is quite well indeed). Not a typical Giggie!
2000 Dom. Clavel Copa Santa – this Languedoc wine is a typical 80/10/10 SGM blend, made to the West of the Rhone. Warm nose of black fruits rather than red, and some roasted meat elements, and interesting spices. Still dark and with softening tannins, it has lots of acidity and drank well now. No rush but probably won’t improve.
1984 Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet – plum, currant and dark chocolate notes in this nose, and slight coffee hints. Still has dark colour but the tannins are resolved and it drinks smoothly with a long finish that brings out a little mint. At plateau for some years but holding well.
Must remember to put a time lock on that cellar next time…..