We've only seen Cornelissen from Etna here so I was happy to get a couple of Graci's entry-level wines shipped from Italy. I'm not sure Alberto Graci self-identifies with the natural wine movement but his vine growing and wine making philosophy seems to be that of minimal intervention. But the wines are not at all in the freaky end of the minimal intervention spectrum and come across as perfectly normal in comparison to Cornelissen.
Graci Etna Bianco 2011
13% abv; 70% Carricante & 30% Catarratto. This is a very attractive white with plenty of almost tropical fruit but with a citric edge. Focused, properly acidic palate, medium in body but very light on its feet and very moreish. I like this a lot. Carricante is a grape that can retain high acidity even in warm conditions, so that and the altitude (c.600m for these vineyards) explain why this is so deliciously crisp despite coming from an island only a mile away from the surface of the sun.
Graci Etna Rosso 2010
13,5%; 100% Nerello Mascalese. Very stinky in a not nice kind of way on opening. It reminded me of the time I was given the Icelandic delicacy of fermented shark, Hákari: it smelled sharp like ammonia. 10 minutes in a decanter and that pretty much cleared up and the wine was just gorgeous and tangy and supremely moreish with plenty of tannins and acidity but without being harsh in any way. I don't have enough experience with Nerello Mascalese but I think I like the grape: it seems to have interesting aromas (and I don't mean that in the euphemistic, fermented sharky way), good structure and never seems badly affected by the heat of the island. Lovely wine; just give it a bit of air before pouring it in the glass unless you like Icelandic putrefied shark.

