Arbois Chardonnay 2010 – Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot – Alc.13.5% - (c.€17).
About 18 months ago I thought this entry level Tissot wine a model young Chardonnay, fresh, crisp and mineral with a nice underlying roundness. A year later, a second bottle was similar with slightly more complexity.
Yesterdays bottle was disconcertingly different. The colour was veering to a deeper gold and the aromas showed notes of wax floor polish which I thought touch oxidative (Germaine said sherry but I didn't quite get that). Most of the fresh crispness had gone and the minerality was more muted and the overall effect was richer and much more evolved. It was still enjoyable as a rich oxidative bottle but not at what I expected.
What's going on? 2010 seem very recent for the appearance pox even in a basic cuvée. Or is it that oxidative trait, more familiar with old fashioned Jura producers, creeping in?