Salil and Ross organized a small dinner last night at the North End Grill. Rainy night, and about as far from Grand Central as one could get in Manhattan, but a very enjoyable night. I’ve seldom have an evening where wines as a whole performed so well, not a disappointing showing in the bunch.
We had a nice semi-private nook, and service was gracious with plenty of glassware. Food was quite tasty, though I wished the menu had mentioned that the bucatini with pumpkin was fiery hot - not a great wine match. My lamb main was good, though a bite of Jay’s Creekstone steak was even better.
1990 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
Broad but with nervy acids, brioche, chalk, lemon and apple. Delicious and classic, about all I could want in a mature BdB. A-/A
2006 Keller "Morstein" Riesling
Pretty sure this is a GG though I neglected to look. Yellow fruits, mineral, ginger, just a hint of petrol. Young, good length, needs time, tasty now. My favorite Keller to date. A-/B+
1988 Ch. Cantemerle
Red fruits accented with green pepper, herbs, cedar, some tannins, but acid providing most of the structure. Got better with air (and lamb). Nice showing in heavy company. B+
1985 Ch. Magdelaine
At first I found this quite muted on nose, though nice on the palate. Some thought it heavy, I thought just the opposite. With air to me it filled out, with lovely black plum fruit, cigarbox, and ferric notes on finish. I originally wrote B+/B but this was a solid A-
1982 Ch. Magdelaine
This and the Cantemerle were double decanted about 3 PM. Full, lush but fresh acids, very floral, lovely texture, great length. A-
1959 Ch. Magdelaine
The reason for this gathering. I liked at first, but thought while it had good fruit, it was not particularly complex for a 1959. Oh ye of little faith, give it a little time. This ended up one of the best St Emilions I’ve ever had- pure black fruits, earth, leather, mocha. Velvety texture, fresh and long. A
2006 de Montille “Malconsorts” Vosne-Romanee 1er
Beautiful red fruits, spice, exotic, good length. Drinking surprisingly well, though I’m sure age will help. B+/A-
2006 de Montille “Malconsorts - Christiane” Vosne-Romanee 1er
For drinking now I preferred the “straight” Malconsorts, though this will probably last longer. A touch hard around the edges, less giving on the nose, for drinking now a B/B+ but this has lots of potential.
1994 Schloss Lieser “Niederberg Helden” Riesling Beerenauslese (375)
Good acids, pretty ready to go, peach pie, honey, flowers. Nice way to finish evening. B+
Just an amazing array of wines, all showing at or above (high) expectations. And John and I made the train with (with nothing to spare).
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.