2001 Jamet, Côte Rôtie:
No secondary development but a lovely sense of harmony; the ash and violet elements are only accents and the fruit is warm and red; silky, of a piece and long. Beautiful wine, drinking well.
Side by side over dinner; 1999 and 2001, Chevillon, NSG Les Saint-Georges:
Both were very good and reasonably open; the ‘01 was more developed, more complete and more savory; the ’99 was still about its sap with sweeter fruit and a tighter core. As I say, both fine wines and a pleasure with dinner but the ’01 drinks better now.
BTW, both were decanted and open throughout dinner . . . and they both needed it.
2009 Calluna, Merlot Aux Reynauds:
Some might say that calling this the best California merlot I’ve had is damning with faint praise; they would be wrong. Restrained yet deep and rich; varietally correct but showing hillside pedigree and complexity, fragrant, mouth-filling and sustained. 14.1% alcohol that is completely hidden. Few Pomerols do as well this early in life.
Wine in paper bottles? Yep.
A gimmick? Yep.
Eco-friendly? Yep.
Good wine? Yep.
Not great or character driven but clean, user-friendly, not overdone and frankly, delicious. $14 for Mendocino chardonnay and $15 for the Paso red blend. “Paper Boy Winery” is how they market it.
What won’t they think of next?
2010 Clos de Mez (Chat. Gaillard) Morgon:
At first, I think there is something wrong here; a metallic-like smell and an extractive taste, so I put my glass aside. Later in the evening, the smell is gone but not that drying taste. Leaving the glass out overnight gets me an intense black fruit aroma and a tannic palate and mouth-feel. I am not sure what to make of this but I suspect bottle age is its friend; whether the fruit will survive as long as the tannins take to resolve is a matter for another time.
Best, Jim