by TomHill » Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:32 pm
We had a Syrah this week, a very unusual rendition of a Calif Syrah, that I totally got, but most did not. But it caused me to ponder a bit (dangerous thing, I know):
1. Suppose you have a good/primo Syrah vnyd in the heart of the SantaYnezVlly. You are are a very competent winemaker. You can harvest your grapes later and make a big/extracted/ripe Syrah, give it some toasty/oak, and make a wine that is sure to garner at least a 95 out of Monktown. Instead, you harvest early, make a lightly colored almost rose Syrah, easy-drinking w/ little extract or tannin, and a lovely perfumed/aromatic nose that reminds more of Langhe Nebbiolo w/o the tannic bite. Will only achieve an 86 from Laube if you're lucky.
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2. You have some primo land in the south end of the NapaVlly, down on the valley floor, well-drained. All around you are vnyds planted to Cabernet and Chardonnay, many selling for big $$'s, many very highly regarded by the critics. Instead of doing the obvious, you go in and plant...get this...RibollaGialla and Refosk. Wines, even if they're competently made, will only get you, if you're lucky and have a pretty label, maybe $25-$30/btl.
It's beyond me why any winemaker in his right mind would make such a bizaarre choice...it makes no sense.
Tom