Warm brambly underbush scents, unexpectedly dark and tannic at first. Quite impressive, but my initial reaction is that I'd love to taste this in 15 years.
With just a touch of air it becomes more refreshing, as the acidity comes to the fore then everything starts blossoming like a summer rose with that thrilling Burgundy bouquet (sorry Chris) which never fails to send a chill down my spine. After 10-15 minutes it starts to clamp down becoming stern and serious though with an impressive purity. Eventually it develops a very attractive crushed strawberry character. It's this beguiling changeability that first seduced me to Burgundy and this is a beautiful example of it.
I prefer this to the '02 and even the '99 which had been a particular favorite of mine.