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WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

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Andrew Bair

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WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by Andrew Bair » Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:24 pm

A few recent wines from the Mosel and the Pfalz.

2009 Theo Minges Riesling Spätlese “Der Froschkönig”
Opened an hour before pouring. Mineral/floral/stone fruit nose. Full, round, fruity, ripe, lightly sweet, with moderate acidity; definitely not as dry as one might think at 12.5% alcohol. Smooth/polished texture; tastes of red plums, limes, passionfruit, and mineral, with hints of hibiscus and fresh herbs. The only thing holding this wine back is a very dry, hard, chalky finish that comes on abruptly and doesn’t sync with the rest of the picture, so to speak - at least to me. Good; I admire what Theo Minges is trying to do here, and hope that future vintages are even better. I expected to like this more. Perhaps I just hit it in a bad spot?

2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
The axiom has always been that Prüms need time before they are ready - this bottle was an exception, however. Light to moderate in weight, slightly riper than the previous wine, though still showing a good level of acidity. Nicely focused, with cool minerals/wet stones, and red berry, citrus, and apple flavors. No sulfur aromas, so it is already approachable. Excellent.

2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
Still showing a good bit of sulfur on the nose. This is moderate in weight, with good tension for 2007, and good structure; showing notes of apples, red fruits, peaches, minerals, and a bit of salinity. This will be excellent, but I’d give it several years.

1995 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese
From 375 ml bottle. Apparently, some frozen grapes were used in this wine. Dark reddish-brown color. Tropical/tangerine/baking spice/dark chocolate nose, with a bit of botrytis. Lightly viscous, sweet, well balanced, with good underlying acidity. Tastes of blood oranges, cherries, and raisins; some mango and clove on the finish. Very good+.

1993 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein
From 375 ml bottle. Quite nicely balanced, with good underlying acidity; moderately sweet, silky, and light on its feet, so to speak. Clean, with no evidence of botrytis. Loaded with aromas and flavors of tangerines, blood oranges, and apricots, with hints of citrus blossoms, minerals, and mace. Excellent/outstanding.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by Rahsaan » Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:43 pm

Andrew Bair wrote:2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
The axiom has always been that Prüms need time before they are ready - this bottle was an exception, however...


Bernkasteler Badstube is no Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
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Re: WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by Andrew Bair » Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:51 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Andrew Bair wrote:2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
The axiom has always been that Prüms need time before they are ready - this bottle was an exception, however...


Bernkasteler Badstube is no Wehlener Sonnenuhr.



I'm aware of that, Rahsaan, but have also had "estate" Kabinetts from Prüm that needed several years to get going.
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Re: WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by Rahsaan » Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:57 pm

Andrew Bair wrote:
Rahsaan wrote:
Andrew Bair wrote:2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
The axiom has always been that Prüms need time before they are ready - this bottle was an exception, however...


Bernkasteler Badstube is no Wehlener Sonnenuhr.



I'm aware of that, Rahsaan, but have also had "estate" Kabinetts from Prüm that needed several years to get going.


Ok. So this was even more forward than most Bernkasteler Badstube wines from Prum. I must admit I don't drink very widely across the Prum lineup, so don't have much detailed experience with all the vineyards/designates.
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Re: WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by David M. Bueker » Wed Aug 28, 2013 7:36 am

Typically Prum has wines available from the following:

Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Graacher Himmelreich
Bernkasteler Badstube
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr

There have been others in the past, such as

Berkasteler Lay
Graacher Domprobst
Wehlener Klosterberg

And some non-vineyard designate wines.
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Re: WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by Andrew Bair » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:33 pm

1. Rahsaan - I didn't mean to come across rudely - my apologies if you think that I did in my response.

2. David - Thank you for the interesting info on these erstwhile vineyard-designated wines from Prüm. You don't see Wehlener Klosterberg on many labels these days - apparently, Markus Molitor makes one, which I have never come across. Lay is a site that I've come to associate with Dr. Loosen.
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Re: WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by Bill Hooper » Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:03 am

Minges usually bottles a dry version alongside the sweet. I much prefer the dry but I don't think that Terry imports it.

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Paul Winalski

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Re: WTN: Recent Mosel & Pfalz

by Paul Winalski » Wed Sep 04, 2013 11:14 am

The New Hampshire State Liquor Store at exit 6 in Nashua NH recently put several QmP German wines in their deeply-discounted discontinued items section. Among these was 2007 JJ Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett. The discount price is $20/750ml net, marked down from $35 or so. I wasn't interested at the original price, but I figured I couldn't go too far wrong at the new discounted price, provided that the bottles had been stored properly and the wine was in good condition. I tried one and the wine is sound, and is much as Andrew described it. There were still a case or two on the shelf yesterday after I bought several for my cellar. There are also wines from Thanich, Knyphausen, and the Staatsweingut with similar deep discounts.

-Paul W.

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