by Hoke » Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:29 pm
Heck, I'll go one step further and say some kind words for the Blanc de Noirs, Tom.
Disclaimer: I once worked for the company that sold/marketed Korbel sparkling wine.
First thing, I sold an awful lot of it. Because people liked it, and enjoyed drinking it, enough they asked specifically for it. They liked the fruitiness without overt cloying sweetness, the roundness of the wine supported by the acidity.
For many years the BdN has been largely sangiovese---that happened because the winemakers wanted to incorporate some sangiovese into the blend...and turned out that it was perfect for the wine, adding that touch of strawberry/raspberry fruit the winemaker was looking for.
Second thing: it was pleasant and entirely easy to drink and quite satisfying. And I was asked to provide it for my two daughters, who had access to whatever wines they wished but asked for that.
Third thing: there are wines that excite, wines that challenge you, wines that send you into raptures of delight, but there are also wines that are made specifically to be pleasing, enjoyable, dependable, even predictable, and that perform their tasks effortlessly. And I'd put the Korbel BdN in that category.
Now, having been in the same position of competition judging numerous times, and having sometimes asked myself what the hell I was thinking when I gave a particular wine a particular award or medal, i almost always remembered that I did so because at that moment, that wine showed well, even surprisingly well, yes, and was sufficient to deserve its accolades.
Is this wine the absolute epitome of sparkling wine? Nah. But evidently I didn't taste any absolute epiphany wines that particular day, whereas I did taste an entirely pleasant wine, that happened to have a modest price, but that satisfied my needs, and apparently satisfied the needs of many, many different people over many different occasions, enough to bring them back repeatedly.
I don't know what wines were in the set with the BdN. I don't know what happened that day, which way the wines were poured, how the judges were feeling, or what the situation was. But I do know this: that wine so struck a sufficiency of judges---and the Fair is a well run competition and attracts some fine judges, with experienced and toned palates---that it got high marks. More than likely because it deserved the marks...because they appreciated the wine. And isn't that what a competition is for?
Finally, I have given such awards to humble wines. One in particular was when the table captain, when we finished one category, stated "Boy, this one will get some flack. It's not the most prestigious label around." And she was right: it did, and it wasn't. But since the category was "Bargain Chardonnays" and the general price was well under $10, I didn't get terribly upset about my decision.
And just for the record: yes, I have done comps. with Two Buck Chuck and many of its ilk. And, no, I haven't given them any gold medals.