TN: Hooking up with an ex

Château Bouscassé Madiran 2007

I haven't had Bouscassé in years since it was on a long hiatus from Alko. In fact, 1998 or 1999 must have been the previous vintage I've had. I don't mind hard tannins so I bought this to celebrate that the most hectic two weeks of my life is soon to end.

I know I have changed much since I tried the '98 or '99. I have become - if that's even possible! - less tolerant of oak. I have become - if that's even possible! - less tolerant of ripeness and the resulting sameness in aromas coming from varying geographies.

But even when I factor that into my experience of this wine, I feel that the wine must have changed, too. It's now been open for 3h but it still smells quite anonymous and has lost that feel of place I still noticed in the earlier wines. This could be an Argentine Malbec. Or a modern Rioja with a few years' bottle age. Or a right bank Bordeaux. There's only a tiny hint of meatiness poking out from under the glossy, dark, oaky fruit. It is soft and creamy - not words I really associate with Madiran.

What I love most about my memories of previous vintages of this wine are the savoury, refreshing, slightly green aromas. There's nothing like that here. This is dark, sweet and fruity; mouthcoating and ponderous.

Lesson learned: one should never hook up with an ex you think you still fancy.

A sad report, Otto. The last vintage which I have in my cellar is 1999, I think, so there still should be some character.

I remember being told by an exhibitor, who rejoiced in a weird job title like sommelier commercial, that the Brumont estate is now controlled by bankers. So it's not surprising that the range has become much more populist and that there has been some dumbing down.

However, FWIW, I note that the estate is still being praised to the skies by the annual Bettane/Desseauve and RVF guides, along with Pavie, etc. I think that this says more about these critics than about the wines. They seem to be going increasingly for the Parkerised international flavour . I ask myself why I still buy the books.

...... aaagh, you like a good read Tim.