WTN: A positive and a negative surprise ..

2011 Laurent Hug Syrah, Champlan (Valais/Switzerland)
Subtle notes of blackberry, blueberry, fresh meat, iron, herbs and tobacco on the nose. There's intensity with great balance, but no signs of heaviness. Presenting rich, multi-layered fruit with depth and classic structure on the palate, the finish is impressive. Of course, there's some influence from the oak treatment (aromas of vanilla and smoke) at this stage, but the oak is just supportive here, with no chance to dominate this authentic Syrah. Improves a lot with airing and will most likely develop nicely in the bottle in the upcoming 10 years. A magnificent example of a successful Syrah from Switzerland, congratulations to Laurent Hug! - My rating: 91+/100.

2003 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese
Surprisingly bright in color. On the nose showing notes of sulfur, over-ripe grapefruit and some weak pineapple. On the palate this wine tastes like stale children's lemonade, strikingly lacking structure, complexity and depth. I really did not know that one can produce such a bad wine from noble Riesling grapes. What a shame, I must get rid of my remaining bottles .. - My rating: 75/100.

Cheers,
Rainer (from Switzerland )

[David M. Bueker]

I have had better luck with 2003s than that, though Zilliken is not among those I have tried.

2003 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese
Surprisingly bright in color. On the nose showing notes of sulfur, over-ripe grapefruit and some weak pineapple. On the palate this wine tastes like stale children's lemonade, strikingly lacking structure, complexity and depth. I really did not know that one can produce such a bad wine from noble Riesling grapes. What a shame, I must get rid of my remaining bottles .. - My rating: 75/100.

Funny. I just had the Goldkapsel and it performed very well, indeed. One of the best GKAs of the vintage, in my opinion.

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

PS. Should you encounter Sarah Palin when in Alaska, give her my regards, will you!?

2003 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese
.. I really did not know that one can produce such a bad wine from noble Riesling grapes. What a shame, I must get rid of my remaining bottles .. - My rating: 75/100.

Funny. I just had the Goldkapsel and it performed very well, indeed. One of the best GKAs of the vintage, in my opinion.
Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

My friend Nick - while referring to Zilliken's 1976s - told me to be patient with this wine for another 25 years. However, I think life is too short for such speculations. There's plenty of better stuff.

There were some gems made in 2003 (and they will all be present in September!) but they were few and far between and not a single one will last 25 years more, IMHO.

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

Sorry to hear about the Zilliken, Rainer. I actually have not had a 2003 from them yet, but the couple of 1976s that I have had over the past several years showed very well.

Why is it a surprise that a Syrah from Valais should be showing so well? In my limited experience there are some really excellent wines in Valais.

Sorry to hear about the Zilliken, Rainer. I actually have not had a 2003 from them yet, but the couple of 1976s that I have had over the past several years showed very well.

Hi Andrew, I am glad that you had the privilege to enjoy such gems. Actually I'm a fan of the wines of Zilliken .. Have you ever tried by chance his 1994 Saarburger Rausch Beerenauslese? It's just amazing. Cheers, Rainer

Why is it a surprise that a Syrah from Valais should be showing so well? In my limited experience there are some really excellent wines in Valais.

It's surprisingly authentic, classy, made to last, not over-oaked (as many of its peers in Valais) and inexpensive (USD 23, which is about 30% below its peers).