Côtes du Roussillon Villages Patrimoine 2010 – Domaine Boudau – Alc.14.5% - (€17), made from 60% Grenache noir, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan.
Having read in the RVF that this is an outstanding example of a Grenache dominated wine, I was a little disappointed. The bouquet was promising with elegant aromas of cherries veering to kirsch with a sprinkling of spice but, on the palate, the wine was fuller bodied, more structured and more rustic than the bouquet presaged. There was plenty of sweet Grenache fruit and lots of gingery spices which veered towards harsh liquorice on the slightly bitter and hot finish (alcohol?). The wine merchant had recommended some ageing and decanting. The age was probably insufficient at year 3 and I neglected to decant; would it have changed my perception? As it was, good 15/20++.
Valtellina Superiore Sassella 1998 – Conti Sertoli Salis – Alc.12.5% made from Nebbiolo (chiavennasca) 95% together with Pignola, Rossola and Brugnola valtellinesi, was one of a bin-end lot picked up for €5 each a few years ago and is probably my best QPR bargain ever. Like its predecessors, this was a distinguished bottle with a very original flavour profile in a somewhat dark savoury register; colour was a quite light but vigorous garnet, the palate was classically shaped with good length, the body was medium/light but firmly structured and the flavours were intense with aromas that were dominated by cherry, less sour than I remembered, mingled with minerals, fine herbs and tar. Did I detect hints of cabbage presaging an oxidative collapse? Perhaps, but they were so faint as to add an extra element of complexity and it is my last bottle, I think. Very good 16.5/20++ QPR!!! at the bin-end price.
Valle d’Aosta Petite Arvine 2012 – Château Feuillet, Maurizio Fiorano – Alc.13.5% - (c.€15). I am a big fan of Petite Arvine from Valais (CH) and was keen to try one from Valle d’Aosta, not very far away from Valais as the crow flies. I was not disappointed. The nose was fresh and lively with a green fruit, especially lime, fragrance and a hint of ointment reminiscent of some Rueda, which I could have done without. The palate was bone dry, medium bodied and exhilarating with the same fragrant fruit as on the nose, hints of spice, bracingly crisp acidity and a backbone of saline minerals. My Valais examples have been more refined, spicy and complex, but that could be partly a function of their having been 2-3 years older when I drank them. Very good 16/20.
Crozes Hermitage Les 3 Lys 2010 – Cave de Tain – Alc.12.5% - (<€8). A St.Jo, which I picked up from the same source, also carrying the recommendation collarette of an obscure French guide, was surprisingly good, so I gave this a whirl. It was not so good but still very acceptable. It smelled and tasted like northern Rhône with medium/light body, slightly metallic sour cherry, grilled meat with a sprinkling of pepper and lively acidity. Compared with Graillot, Jaboulet, Belle and Yann Chave, it was a touch dilute but I prefer that by far to over-extraction and high alcohol. Good 15/20.