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WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

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WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Covert » Sat Jun 08, 2013 6:02 am

As many of us know, this wine won a top Decanter Magazine blind tasting award in 2011, the details of which (from a web article) I pasted below my note.

I had been curious to taste the wine ever since it won the worldwide award, but only recently compassed the opportunity by trading a 2001 Chateau Carruades de Lafite to a Chinese business person for it. I opened the Chinese bottle last night, prior to lobster risotto, in a nod to China (the rice part).

Evidence says it is a very good wine since a panel of experts from Decanter magazine said it was. So the fact that I wouldn’t want to drink another bottle of it doesn’t potentially mean anything, except to my wife, who would have possibly tried to get me committed to an insane asylum if I had told her I liked it. She was ready to pour it down the drain, but I said I wanted to evaluate it, which would include discriminating how I felt the next day after drinking at least half a bottle of it.

I feel a little edgy and compromised with a touch of a headache and a hint of nausea, similar to how I felt after drinking more than two glasses of any California red in my memory. This is in stark contrast to how I feel the next day after drinking any quantity of a wine (which doesn’t necessitate a 911 call) from the Bordeaux region at or above the cru bourgeois level. For example, at tastings I have consumed as many as seventy small glasses and felt better the next morning than I did the day before, even when were it not for my fine suit the police could have confiscated me just from observance of my gait between the event and my hotel.

Following the Decanter tasting event there were conspiracy theorists who believed it was possible that the bottle did not emanate from China at all, but was instead a ringer from Bordeaux. These people, as most conspiracy theorists are, were out to lunch. Jia Bei Lan does not taste anything like any wine from Bordeaux. California, a little. I could detect similarities to the 1996 Cinq Cepages, which the Wine Spectator Magazine tasting staff declared worthy of 96 points (as I remember – maybe 94) and placed it atop its 100 best wine list for the year, because of its concomitant value. That one I did pour down the drain because I was irritated that I had been sucked into buying it from a suckling staff to whose general taste I do not ordinarily relate. (As an aside, I also got skewered buying the 1995 Chateau Margaux, which the magazine had anointed with 100 points. I can be excused for that, I suppose, because who would ever think that wine wouldn’t even taste as good as a typical cru bourgeois?

I digress. The Jia Bei Lan tasted like a contradiction of effects which I cannot explain. The wine was jammy; but, and so thus, while not vegetal, it nevertheless tasted like vegetables, and autumn leaves, with more acidity than you would find in a jammy California wine. The nose, which I couldn’t exactly identify, except to say it was forest-like, offered up some pleasantly interesting aromas, maybe reminiscent of walking through a wild blackberry patch; and the silky mouthfeel, expressive of a fine Pinot Noir, was probably the best part. The cork smelled acrid with tobacco. I also tasted tobacco, and then cherry, strawberry, cucumber and grass on the palate. My mind also coughed up the idea of bubblegum and soda pop from some indirect, indistinct association with the flavour. The finish was indeed long, but too much redolent of cherries for my taste.


From the web:

Chinese wine wins top honour at Decanter World Wine Awards

• Thursday 8 September 2011
• by Adam Lechmere

For the first time in the history of the Decanter World Wine Awards a Chinese wine has won at the highest level.

Winery He Lan Qing Xue’s Jia Bei Lan 2009 Cabernet blend has won the Red Bordeaux Varietal Over £10 International Trophy.
The award was given out at the Decanter World Wine Awards presentation dinner at the Royal Opera House Covent Garden last night.

Judges said the wine was ‘supple, graceful and ripe but not flashy’ and praised its ‘excellent length and four-square tannins’.

Only 25 International trophies are awarded at the Decanter World Wine Awards, chosen out of more than 12,000 wines entered. In the final judging category, He Lan Qing Xue was tasted against Regional trophy winners including St Emilion Grand Cru Chateau Boutisse and Catena Zapata’s Appellation Cabernet Franc, and wines from Australia, South Africa, California and other premium regions specialising in Bordeaux blends.

Jia Bei Lan is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Gernicht – which is believed to be related to Cabernet Franc or Carmenere – is sold only in China at present, retailing for around £13.

It is produced in Ningxia province in Northern China, in quantities of about 20,000 bottles.

In common with other wine-producing regions of China the climate is extreme, with very hot dry summers and bitterly cold winters, the temperature sometimes falling to -25C, meaning the vines have to be buried in order to keep them alive.

Winemaker Li Demei,who has consulted at the winery since 2006, trained in Bordeaux and did an internship at Chateau Palmer.
He Lan Qing Xue also won a Silver for its 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, while another Chinese winery, Domaine Helan Mountain in Xinjiang Uygur, won Silver for its Classic Chardonnay 2008 and Bronze for its Premium Collection Riesling.

As panel chair Ch’ng Poh Tiong said ‘The Decanter World Wine Awards 2011 was a golden harvest for Middle East, Far East and Asia.

Not only did China pick up medals but Japan, India and Thailand won Silvers and Golds.

‘India and China remain winemaking countries with their doors and windows completely wide open to all sorts of competing ideas – both outside and inside the country.’

Read more at http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/ ... eH4LVor.99
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Jenise » Sat Jun 08, 2013 4:24 pm

IIRC, that was a long conversation in which 1) several of us who have tasted wine in China doubted that the Chinese are ready to produce a wine that good and therefore suspected a substitution and 2) the Bordeauxs it competed with were found to not have been exactly the top of the heap.

Your findings make #1 an even greater possibility, don't you think?
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Covert » Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:49 am

Jenise wrote:IIRC, that was a long conversation in which 1) several of us who have tasted wine in China doubted that the Chinese are ready to produce a wine that good and therefore suspected a substitution and 2) the Bordeauxs it competed with were found to not have been exactly the top of the heap.

Your findings make #1 an even greater possibility, don't you think?


You know, I was naively not considering No. 1, but I am thinking you have to be right. My bottle was so horrid, it is very unlikely that it could have won a blind competition.

Being more American than I like to admit, I naturally play fair and assume others do, too - until I think about it. I also admit I associate that kind of ringer cheating more with Indian M.O. than Chinese. A little story (time to bail out for anyone only interested in the wine aspect of this thread): In my penultimate professional position, I worked for a global organization that had brought all 45 countries represented to an annual, three-day meeting. At the end of a grueling day of lectures and workshops, the company brought in this herky team building consulting group with some stupid intergalactic game we had to play in teams before our merciful wine and dinner. For management to get its money's worth the stupid game had to be convoluted and go on for at least an hour, while teams struggled to gain clues from visiting other teams at their tables and assembling a dossier which would finally yield the answer.

My team consisted of an Indian and two other Americans, one a lawyer. The Indian said the game was bullshit and he knew how to peek at the answer, which was on the leader's desk. I was sure the lawyer wouldn't go for it, but she was as tired as I was and did, so the little Indian guy sidled past the desk and took a quick but decisive peek. We raised our hands and spouted out the answer. The consultants were astonished and told the big roomful of suckers that it was the fastest any team had ever figured out the answer, and that we must be very intelligent. We received our prize and wine was served.

I thought how wonderful it was to be able to put myself in the mindset of an Indian. I so appreciated that aspect, that education, of working closely with folks from so many countries. Boy, I know how politically incorrect what I just said is, but that is what I thought, right or wrong. And I think that is the dynamic whereby the Chinese are cleaning America's clock and will rule the world.
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Shaji M » Sun Jun 09, 2013 8:53 pm

Jenise,
China has planted more hectares of vineyards than any nation in the last few years. Obviously there is an interest in China to produce local wines of note. With the varied geographic landscape they possess, there is a chance that one day they may produce an interesting wine. The Jia Bei Lan doesn't sound like it could be that wine, but given condtions and time, who knows. From what I have gathered from other sources, in China, currently wine (good wine) is a source of prestige and more of a trophy than an accompaniment to meals. It will definitely take more than money and good rootstocks for China to produce a good bottle. There has to be a change in the palate. Heck, even here events like the prohibition changed the outlook on wines on several generations. These are definitely interesting times!
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Jenise » Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:56 pm

Shaji M wrote:Jenise,
China has planted more hectares of vineyards than any nation in the last few years. Obviously there is an interest in China to produce local wines of note. With the varied geographic landscape they possess, there is a chance that one day they may produce an interesting wine. The Jia Bei Lan doesn't sound like it could be that wine, but given condtions and time, who knows. From what I have gathered from other sources, in China, currently wine (good wine) is a source of prestige and more of a trophy than an accompaniment to meals. It will definitely take more than money and good rootstocks for China to produce a good bottle. There has to be a change in the palate. Heck, even here events like the prohibition changed the outlook on wines on several generations. These are definitely interesting times!
-Shaji


I understand that re China. Which is why we took Wine Spectator's cover article (circe 2006, which is when we travelled there) with us and deliberately sought out the wines it reccomended, and we found none of them to have any resemblance to the Speck's descriptions. They weren't just poor they were disturbing, with all kinds of swampy vegetation and volatile flavors of the varnish, furniture polish and plastic shower curtain varieties. The wine Covert describes is exactly of that ilk. Since even young vines can produce decent table wine, it's not the age of the vines that's the problem, it's the standards for quality. And nothing will change until the contents of the bottle are more highly prized than the label. As it is now, possibly anyone who wants to make and sell wine is going to reap more reward from appearing to make good wine than actually making good wine. Kind of like the Samsonite suitcase I bought there that fell apart on the way home.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Shaji M » Mon Jun 10, 2013 1:31 pm

Jenise wrote: Since even young vines can produce decent table wine, it's not the age of the vines that's the problem, it's the standards for quality. And nothing will change until the contents of the bottle are more highly prized than the label. As it is now, anyone who wants to make and sell wine is going to reap more reward from appearing to make good wine than actually making good wine. Kind of like the Samsonite suitcase I bought there that fell apart on the way home.


I agree that only a cultural or a palatal change can deliver a good wine in the end. Did you happen to buy the Samsonite from some Indian guy :wink: ?
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Jenise » Mon Jun 10, 2013 2:20 pm

Shaji M wrote:
Jenise wrote: Since even young vines can produce decent table wine, it's not the age of the vines that's the problem, it's the standards for quality. And nothing will change until the contents of the bottle are more highly prized than the label. As it is now, anyone who wants to make and sell wine is going to reap more reward from appearing to make good wine than actually making good wine. Kind of like the Samsonite suitcase I bought there that fell apart on the way home.


I agree that only a cultural or a palatal change can deliver a good wine in the end. Did you happen to buy the Samsonite from some Indian guy :wink: ?


No, but he's the guy who gave me the tip on where to buy it. :idea: You weren't in Beijing in 2006, were you? ;)
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Shaji M » Mon Jun 10, 2013 2:34 pm

Thankfully I wasn't. I am as much allergic to cheating as much as I am to racism! :wink:
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Jenise » Mon Jun 10, 2013 3:58 pm

Covert said:
I thought how wonderful it was to be able to put myself in the mindset of an Indian.


An Indian. One Indian. With whom you became a co-conspirator. It could as likely been a white guy, god knows we all know a lot of white people who cheat--the WSJ is full of them, and you couldn't leave your wallet unattended in the same room with my lily white younger brother. And, by the way, may I also gently remind you that Americans come in many colors? Shaji, just for instance, is both Indian AND American.
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Covert » Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:00 pm

Jenise wrote:Covert said:
I thought how wonderful it was to be able to put myself in the mindset of an Indian.


And, by the way, may I also gently remind you that Americans come in many colors? Shaji, just for instance, is both Indian AND American.


Do you know that almost all my neighbors are Indians? Every time somebody sells a house in our neighborhood, an Indian family moves in. We have lived here for 22 years. We take care of the Indians’ house next door when they are away, and vice versa. There is great beauty in the fact that we are living in an enclave. The second we want to sell, the Indians will be at the door like Custer's Last Stand (joke), with their feng shui consultants. I think our house has great feng shui, so it will sell like a hot cake. I am talking about Indians who live in India; and of course they aren’t all dishonest, but for any who are not, I think they are at an economic disadvantage. (Of course just because I think something doesn't mean it is right.)

Is one a racist if he thinks Indians who live in India are not as honest on average as, say, Germans who live in Germany, when he doesn't think Indians by race living in the States are any more dishonest than Caucasians living here? He's not a nationalist, of course. Probably just stupid. (I put in this last part in so some clever person can agree with it and feel good. :))
Last edited by Covert on Tue Jun 11, 2013 6:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WTN: 2009 Jia Bei Lan

by Thomas » Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:17 pm

One of the worst--or maybe the worst-wines I have ever tasted was when I judged for a magazine in NYCity wines that airlines serve. The one that was served on a Chinese airline almost made me gag.
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