May 9, 2013 – Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tasting, Lower Falls Wine, Newton Lower Falls, MA
Thanks to the staff of Lower Falls Wine and Ben Howkins of Royal Tokaji for arranging this fun event. Although I have enjoyed a couple of vintages of the Red Label Tokaji in the past, I have not had the opportunity to try any of their single-vineyard offerings before. My impression is that the Royal Tokaji wines tend be a bit more elegant and lighter in weight than some of the other top Tokaji - not that this is a bad thing. Additionally, I was impressed with the quality of their dry wines.
The 18th century classification of Tokaji vineyards is supposedly the first classification of vineyards in any major wine region. The best sites were divided into Great First Growths; First, Second, and Third Class Growths. Although Royal Tokaji does make a single-vineyard Aszú from one of the Second Class Growths, Birsalmás, it was not offered at this tasting.
All of the sweet Tokaji are from 500 ml unless otherwise noted.
2011 Tokaji Furmint Dry
Full-bodied, well balanced, with nice acidity; moderately round, fresh, with notes of apricots, melons, spices, honey, and a bit of minerality. Very nice.
2010 Tokaji Furmint Dry Mézes Maly Great First Growth
Along with Szarvas Dülö, Mézes Maly is one of the two Great First Growths of Tojaki. Spicy nose. Full-bodied, round, structured, with good underlying acidity. Lightly honeyed, mineral, with notes of stone fruits, apples, and straw. Excellent - - a Hungarian answer to Großes Gewächs?.
2009 Tokaji Mád Cuvée
70% Furmint, 25% Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, and 5% Hárslevelü; from 375 ml bottle. A modern-styled late harvest wine, with Sauternes-like tropical, honey, and apricot flavors, and definite botrytis. Bright and well balanced. Very good.
2008 Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos Red Label
Lightly oxidative, moderately viscous, fresh, elegant, with good acidity; deceptively layered, with notes of spices, honey, yellow fruits, and nuts. Not as structured as the single vineyard offerings. Excellent.
2007 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Szt. Tamás First Growth
Moderately viscous, highly elegant, focused, with good underlying acidity. Lightly oxidized, full of apricot flavors, with fruitcake, spice, mocha, and melon notes. Excellent.
2007 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Betsek First Growth
Moderately viscous, with a bit more weight than the previous wine; focused, elegant, very smooth, with notes of apricots, orange marmalade, baking spices, black pepper, and roasted nuts; a bit of vanilla. Excellent.
2007 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Mézes Maly Great First Growth
A little more viscous and honeyed, with good focus and acidity; has notes of apricots, citrus fruits, pineapples, walnuts, and spices. Excellent.
1990 Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos Betsek First Growth
Nose of espresso, roasted nuts, and spices. Somewhat drier, well balanced, with peppery, burnt sugar, orange, and mocha flavors. Excellent.