It was now aromatically well developed on the nose showing red fruit, minerals and the typical noble green edge together with an underlying roundness. The palate was medium bodied, classically shaped and more lively and expansive than before showing good acidity and mature tannic structure, decent length and depth and adding to the attractive aromas from the nose that ineffable sweet touch frequent in mature left bank claret which is reminiscent of that in fine unsugared tea, nothing at all like the more overt sweetness of fruit in a lot of “modern” Bordeaux. A very good and satisfying claret and hardly inferior IMO, if at all, to the much more trumpeted 1990; 16.5/20++.
Château Langoa-Barton - Saint-Julien 3ème cru Classé – 1990 – (Estate planted with 70% Cabernet-sauvignon, 20% Merlot , 10% Cabernet franc – 2008 information)
The nose showed aromas of black currant and mint with only a hint of cedar and forest floor. The palate was classically shaped palate with gentle crescendo towards the ripe structured finish with a decent but not super-long diminuendo on the slightly perfumed after-taste. The same aromas as on the nose were integrated into a smooth medium-full body with fruit rather darker but with more complex secondary flavours than my previous bottle 4 years ago. The gentle herbaceous vegetal edge, acidity and minerality which I appreciate in a classical Bordeaux vintage were less in evidence than usual due probably to the “Californian” nature of the vintage. Very good 16.5/20.
And now for two southern Rhône wines from a producer new to me, Arnoux & fils, AFAIK nothing to do with the Burgundian Arnoux.
Vin de Pays de Vaucluse P’tit Clocher – Arnoux & Fils – Alc12.5% - (<€6 special offer), made from Grenache 75%, Cinsault & Syrah, showed aromas of wild bramble fruit with a touch of resin and spice and medium/light palate had bright fruit, very lively acidity, generous mouth-fill together with variations on the aromas from the nose. This wine was such an enjoyable quaffer that I regret not having bought more bottles. Good 15.5/20 QPR!.
Vacqueyras ClassiC 2010 – Vieux Clocher, Arnoux & Fils – Alc.14% - (c.€10 special offer), made from 70 % Grenache, 25 % Syrah, 5 % Mourvèdre and aged in large oak barrels for 6 months. Unlike most Vacqueyras which lean towards gutsy robustness, this one showed almost Burgundian refinement at the same time as good body and firm structure. The aromas on the nose were quite intense and marked by fine sweet cherry and a touch of spice. The palate was medium/full body with plenty of velvety fruit again marked by sweet cherry veering towards kirsch and touches of spice and showed firm but ripe tannins supporting a quite long finish. I have never before met this type of taste profile so far South, Rayas excepted. The high alcohol did not obtrude; indeed we finished the bottle at one sitting
. Very good 16/20++ QPR! And to round off these notes, some miscellanea.
Rioja Ibéricos Soto de Torres – Tempranillo - Crianza 2010 – Familia Torres – Alc.14% - (<€8 special offer). I did not enjoy my previous experience of this wine, 2007 I think, because of ugly dry caramel notes towards the finish. This one was much better and showed the sort of Rioja character which I enjoy.
The subdued aromas were marked by some nice notes of sour/medium sweet cherry. The palate was medium bodied with nice round primary fruit, again marked by cherry, with welcome discretion in the typical vanilla touches. The finish was fair in length and was supported by firm tannins. I guess that this may sing louder after a few more months in the bottle but it was already good; 15/20 QPR.
Chablis 1er cru Montmains 2007- Denis Race (€9,80 at cellar door) is perhaps not quite so crisply mineral as my previous bottle about 18 months ago, so no longer suitable for oysters, but still showed backbone, length and juicy white and citrus fruit together with lovely aromas and some real class. Very good 16.5/20 QPR!!
Anjou Chenin blanc - 2012 - La Roulerie - Alc.13% - (<€6). The 2010 and 2011 were our staple house white for about 2 years. In spite of a difficult season, Roulerie still managed to make a good wine in 2012. Like the two previous years, it was medium/light in body, linear in shape, well focussed with nice white fruit, minerals, lively acidity and a slightly saline finish. The main difference was a slightly greater tartness and less subtlety but not enough to prevent enjoyment. Good 15/20 and it may improve with a few more months in the bottle QPR.
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