by TomHill » Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:25 pm
On the Thurs that Susan flew in for RR'13, we immediately headed North to spend a bit of time up on MtVeeder w/ Steve/Carole at Lagier-Meredith. Susan had never been there before and was most impressed by the views, not to mention the quite friendly cats. We tried a few things on the deck and then headed down to Napa for dinner at The Thomas at Fagiani's, a wonderful place for a meal. Among the wines we tasted were:
1. Dom.Jean Vullien StJean de la Porte Mondeuse AC: Vin de Savoie (MeBalP; 12.5%; JeffWellburnSlctns) Freterive 2009: Dark color; strong plummy/black cherry/blackberry/Mondeuse some earthy/dusty but rough/rustiv rather fragrant nose w/ lots of bass notes; some tart rather earthy/dusty strong/lush plummy/black cherry/blackberry/Mondeuse flavor w/ some modest tannins; needs several yrs yet; pretty classic Savoie Mondeuse at a great price. $13.00 (WEx)
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2. Lagier-Meredith Tribidrag MtVeeder/NapaVlly RW (15.1%) 2011: Very dark color; very strong spicy/blackberry/Zin very spicy/peppery light toasty/oak beautiful Mtn Zin nose; some tart rather tannic strong blackberry/Zin/boysenberry very spicy/peppery light earthy/dusty light oak very structured flavor w/ some tannins; very long blackberry/Zin very spicy/peppery some earthy/dusty/Mtn Zin light oak finish w/ fair tannins; very well-made and quite structured for the long haul; loads of spicy/peppery/Mtn Zin character; no signs of overripe or alcoholic heat whatsoever; a stunning Zin and well worth the $40.00
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3. Cuilleron LesSerines AC: StJoseph (12.5%) Chavanay 1998: Med.dark color w/ some bricking; rather classic/low-key Rhonish/roasted/smokey/pungent slight blackberry/Syrah some complex nose; fairly tart some lean/hard/dried-out lovely Rhonish/roasted/coffee/smokey/pungent very light blackberry/Syrah some toasty/oak flavor; lots of classic Rhonish character but seems to be on a downhill trajectory.
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4. Lagier-Meredith Syrah MtVeeder/NapaVlly 1998: Very dark color w/ very little bricking; very strong blackberry/Syrah/framboise quite spicy light toasty/oak nose w/ some developing complexity; very strong blackberry/Syrah/spicy/framboise light toasty/oak very spicy classic Mtn-Syrah flavor w/ some tannins; starting to show some complexity but plenty of very spicy primary Syrah fruit and will probably go another 10 yrs; a classic L-M Syrah in all its glory.
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5. JosephPhelpsVnyds Delice du Semillon (13.0%; RS: 10.1%; 15% SauvBlanc) 1986: Very dark golden/bronze some browning color; intense botrytis/peachy/apricotty some buttercscotchy/caramel/creme brulee light toasty/oak rather complex old-Sauternes nose; quite sweet bit tart rich/lush peachy/apricotty/botrytis strong creme brulee/caramel/butterscotchy light toasty/butterscotchy/oak fairly complex flavor; pretty classic old Sauternes w/o the earthy character; beautiful dessert wine that will go another 10 yrs or more. $9.00/hlf
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And a wee BloodyPulpit:
1. One of the things that I learned during our conversation out on the deck was that ChesterBrandlin had died a month earlier. He was the owner of the legendary BrandlinVnyd down the hill from L-M. The bulk of it was sold to Cuvaison some 10-15 yrs earlier and the Zin grapes now mostly go to PeterFranus, w/ a lot of Cabernet being planted and the Mourvedre being pulled. Chester kept a small plot of old Zin and the home to keep himself occupied. He was, of course, the owner of the famed Chester's Anvil that now resides in Steve/Carole's basement, right next to Steve's German girlfriend (an old Porsche). I'd brought along a surplus W33 in hopes that Steve & I could do some anvil launching...but Steve was worried that it's 4.3 kT might do some environmental damage atop MtVeeder and get him in trouble w/ the NapaCnty authorities, so he nixed the idea. I regret that I never had the opportunity to meet Chester. The future of his old Zin vnyd is now up in the air, I gather.
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2. Tribidrag: This is, of course, the ancient name for Zinfandel, for which Carole was a prime person in its association w/ Croatia and Crljenak Kaštelanski (and Italian Primitivo). There was a leaf in an old herbarium in Croatia that looked like Crljenak Kaštelanski. The initial test of this dried leaf failed to identify a variety. As the DNA techniques were refined to work w/ long-dead samples, the Tribidrag was found to be, indeed, Crljenak Kaštelanski. Tribidrag is now the recognized (by JancisRobinson) as the historical name for Zinfandel.
They planted a small plot of Zin on the L-M vnyd in 2007 and was able to make their first btlg of it in 2011. Steve/Carole put Tribidrag on the label in prominent letters, fully expecting it to be bounced by the Feds as Tribidrag is not a recognized (by them) varietal name. A quick Google by the Feds on Tribidrag and the jig would have been up. But they (apparently) thought it to be a fanciful name and approved the label w/ flying colors.
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3. The Thomas charges no corkage for wines older than the 2003 vintage. So we were pretty successful in gaming the system that night. I brought the Phelps in hopes of having it w/ their wood-fired chocolate brownies; reputedly the 2'nd best brownies made in the entire NapaVlly. Alas, they were not on the dessert menu that night.
Tom