G.H. Mumm Champagne Cordon Rouge Brut NV $35.99, 12%.: This bottle was quite likely two years old or more, from what the distributor rep who sold it to my predecessor tells me. I brought this one home to check out the condition of the wine, due to water damage to the labels that made it impossible to sell, and I was happy to find that what is in the bottle is doing just fine. Medium straw in color, with an active bead and plenty of froth in the mouth; the nose is all flint and unbuttered popcorn, with more of the same on the palate, anchored with a solid core of under-ripe apple and a hint of bread dough underneath it all. It shows good intensity on every level, with plenty of nervosity and good length on the finish. It’s somewhat ironic that I brought this home when I did, because I read some rather unkind remarks directed towards Cordon Rouge on some internet wine forums with regard to being in the Tigers’ clubhouse for both of their playoff celebrations, but we found it to be just fine, and even if it’s not the best Champagne around for the money, it still kicks Veuve Clicquot’s yellow ass every day of the year. But then, I suppose that’s not saying much…
Imported by Allied Domecq Wines, USA, Healdsburg, CA
-From Bubbles in October
Reporting from Day-twah,
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