Open Mike: 2005 German Rieslings

[David M. Bueker]

Hey gang, the 2005 Germans have hit USA shores, so let'scrack open a few (European contributions more than welcome!) and see what's up. I had two last night that were stunningly good, the 2005 Emerich-Schonleber Monziger Halenberg Riesling Spatlese (Nahe) and the 2005 Carl von Schubert Maximin Grunhaus Abstberg Riesling Auslese (Ruwer). The Schonleber had great balance and a mineral core, while the Grunhaus was wonderfully intense and layered, with very little of that young Grunhaus leesy stink. I think both wines are highly promising for the long haul. Just to make things completely crazy I also had the 2005 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese (Saar) and two different versions of the 2005 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Beerenauslese (Mosel), the regular and the "one-star." All three were just lovely, with the Zilliken and the "basic" version of the Selbach BA being two of my favorite wines of the weekend.

And on the miniature side, I am currently drinking a half-bottle of the 2005 Strub Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett (Rheinhessen) that is a great bargain. For $7.99 a half bottle (in screw cap to boot!!!) there's pure refreshment with peach fruit and a smoky, chalky, mineral core. Just delicious. There's ample acidity here as well.

So there's lots to love in 2005. Let's dive in.

Good one David, here`s an Open Mike that will last through Christmas I`d say!!! I have been looking around these parts for some `05`s but without much luck. There are some entry level wines on the shelves but that is about it. Also Alberta seems to lag behind vintage-wise most of the time!!
Guess a couple of local calls might result in something?

I posted on my sample case 2005s a while back. We have so far received very few 05s here, but what has arrived I will report upon. And I'll link to my past threads for good measure! Good topic.

-O-(Rieslingoholic, also)

You got here pretty quick Otto!!! Someone tip you off?

You got here pretty quick Otto!!! Someone tip you off?

You? Trick question, is it?

Otto, I did a search for your notes but no luck. Where are they, on this forum? I am not too keen on the "search" engine here.

Just to make things completely crazy I also had the 2005 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese (Saar) and two different versions of the 2005 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Beerenauslese (Mosel), the regular and the "one-star." All three were just lovely, with the Zilliken and the "basic" version of the Selbach BA being two of my favorite wines of the weekend.

David,
Did you by any chance read what David Schildknecht had to say about the '05 M-S-Rs? Ziiliken in particular seemed to find favor with him. Myself, I am still waiting to see if anyone I know attended yesterday's CSW tasting. There should be plenty of '05 notes from that.

Mark Lipton

[David M. Bueker]

Did you by any chance read what David Schildknecht had to say about the '05 M-S-Rs? Ziiliken in particular seemed to find favor with him.

I did read David's latest reviews in great detail. He was certainly convinced by the 2005 for their innate quality, but I cannot help but wonder if he is actually more a fan of 2004 for its precision. David is more of an acid hound.

Anyway, I certainly like the 2005 Zillikens, one of which I did not mention above (the 2005 Saarburger Rausch Auslese), but that I tasted over the course of the weekend and loved. Great density of fruit (I think 2005 will be a density of fruit vintage for me. That's what stands out.) and fine balance. I think the Saar shows the keen balance of 2005, where some regions (e.g. Pfalz) are over thick and soft.

the 2005 Carl von Schubert Maximin Grunhaus Abstberg Riesling Auslese (Ruwer)...was wonderfully intense and layered, with very little of that young Grunhaus leesy stink

Yes, I am curious to taste these wines. I understand part of the emphasis in the new winemaking regime has been to make them friendlier while young, but then while still preserving the character of the sites. Good to hear the positive notes.

[David M. Bueker]

So I'll keep this going myself with a bottle of 2995 Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett that is showing how much you can get from a lesser terroir and a commited grower. For about $14 you get spatlese quality juice with plenty of fruit, great acid balance and a shockingly long finish. For those who like the Dragonstone, spend the extra few dollars to trade up to this wine. You will not regret it. Delicious and in screwcap to boot!

Well, I finally had a heads up on some Gunderloch `05s so will check out tomorrow!!

I just got several '05s in. This should be fun. First sip of the Loosen Erdener Treppchen Kab certainly is!

Well, here`s one, the Gunderloch Rothenberg Nachenheim Ries. Spat. I would think this is a bit young eh. Oh yes, $34 Cdn.
Anyhows have the `05 Jean Baptiste Ries Kab coming via courier!!!! $14 on the shelf, apparently it was a special order for a bistro who did not pay up, so cheap.

Hi David,

The only 05 riesling I have tried is the St. Urbans-Hof. Nice basic riesling, good nose, nice fruit, well balanced, and off-dry (a bit more rs than most kabinetts, according to my buds). 10% abv. I bought 3 and only have one left in the cellar. I would buy more, as I think it was only $15 CAN.

[David M. Bueker]

Hi David,

The only 05 riesling I have tried is the St. Urbans-Hof. Nice basic riesling, good nose, nice fruit, well balanced, and off-dry (a bit more rs than most kabinetts, according to my buds). 10% abv. I bought 3 and only have one left in the cellar. I would buy more, as I think it was only $15 CAN.

Tom,

The entire spectrum of what one can expect from QbA and Kabinett has been turned on its head lately by the unprecendented string of ripe vintages in Germany. I'm not sure you will find "normal" rs anymore. The mere fact that a QbA has 10% alcohol tells you a lot about its ripeness. These wines used to have 8%.

The only '05 I've had recently is the Valckenberg Estate Kab (Rheinhessen) #17 06. It was chock full of red fruit, decent acidity, and fairly hefty (as you'd expect). I wouldn't call it beautifully balanced but it was a nice drink.

Hi David,

The only 05 riesling I have tried is the St. Urbans-Hof. Nice basic riesling, good nose, nice fruit, well balanced, and off-dry (a bit more rs than most kabinetts, according to my buds). 10% abv. I bought 3 and only have one left in the cellar. I would buy more, as I think it was only $15 CAN.

Hi Tom, saw that one yesterday in town!! Would have picked out if I had not had the heads-up on the Gunderloch.

So I'll keep this going myself with a bottle of 2995 Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett

Now that's buying futures! I generally like this bottling, will look for the 2005.

After discarding most of a Sonoma PN last night, I unscrewed a bottle of the 2005 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Kabinett. Enough sugar I glanced to make sure I hadn't opened a Spätlese, but the sweetness is offset by vibrant acidity. Round in the mouth, but lively. Beautiful white peach fruit with a squirt of lime, a slatey minerality surrounding the fruit. A little herby/spicy note on the long finish. Excellent for under $20. With mixed reviews re 2005s I'm sticking my toes in slowly, but this is a rebuy.

[David M. Bueker]

With mixed reviews re 2005s I'm sticking my toes in slowly, but this is a rebuy.

Dale,

One thing I will say is that the wines are showing much better now than they did over the summer. I was somewhat down on the vintage because when I first tasted them they were too soft for me. Now, especially in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Nahe, I am tasting a much better balanced product. I'm still wary in other regions, but things have been pretty positive.

Hi David,

The only 05 riesling I have tried is the St. Urbans-Hof. Nice basic riesling, good nose, nice fruit, well balanced, and off-dry (a bit more rs than most kabinetts, according to my buds). 10% abv. I bought 3 and only have one left in the cellar. I would buy more, as I think it was only $15 CAN.

Tom,

The entire spectrum of what one can expect from QbA and Kabinett has been turned on its head lately by the unprecendented string of ripe vintages in Germany. I'm not sure you will find "normal" rs anymore.

David,

I noticed that when I bought the Gunderloch 03 spatlese last year. It was at least auslese in sweetness, if not BA. Really nice wine, but too sweet for a meal (had it Thanksgiving Dinner). More of a dessert wine and as a matter of fact, one of my brothers drank it as his dessert wine. However, I bought the Gunderloch 03 Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett this summer and it seems to be true to form in rs. Se la vie.

[David M. Bueker]

Tom,

Gunderloch has let the Spatlese go towards a more opulent style in recent years (the 2003 vintage did not help matters), but the Jean Baptiste is always made in a halbtrocken style. So there's specific action taken to preserve the 'Jean Baptiste' character.

[David M. Bueker]

Just to keep it rolling:

2005 Selbach-Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel)
As with most of the '05s I have tasted since fall began this is showing much more than it did over the summer. It's big for a kabinett (there's a surprise...not), but maintains a lovely balance of rich tree fruit-apples and cherries-and a salty minerality. Very engaging stuff, though I will age it as I would a good spatlese. See this one again in 7-8 years.

Myself, I am still waiting to see if anyone I know attended yesterday's CSW tasting. There should be plenty of '05 notes from that.

Mark Lipton

I didn't take notes unfortunately. But I can tell you the Austrian Rieslings were fantastic (I think I prefer '04 for GV but '05 for Riesling there). Most of the Germans were excellent though a bit too buried in puppy fat to be really thrilling at this stage. I was especially disappointed by the Muller-Catoirs and positive reviews to the contrary do not personally find them compelling post-2001.

The one wine I bought was the 2005 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg MSR Riesling Kabinett 3 561 303-08-06. Unlike many '05s this was displaying a crystalline purity and minerality that had some beatiful flesh without being buried in it. My one complaint is that I'm never going to remember the name of this producer and at this point I really want to...

[David M. Bueker]

Karthauserhof