WTN: Young Gigondas, Fèlsina,Chablis 1er +some 2nd looks

Gigondas 2009 – Domaine du Cayron – Alc.14% - (c.€18 ). I would normally wait a few more years before serving a Gigondas but following the recommendation of chef Alain Senderens (formerly 3 Michelin stars) I used a three year old Gigondas with one of his recipes. Colour was a deep purply red, the nose was well developed with notes of dark fruit, anise, herbs and tar and the palate was full bodied and robust with lot of primary flavours playing variations on the themes from the nose with touches of liquorice and honest rusticity to boot together with lively acidity and firm tannins. I continue to prefer leading S.Rhône villages with a touch more evolution and complexity but many people prefer them like this. Due to a misreading (or mis-writing?) of the recipe, the sauce was less concentrated than it should have been and this burgeoning youngster dominated the dish, but that is not the wine’s fault. It was very good; 16.5/20.

Chianti Classico 2004 – Fèlsina Beradenga – Alc.13.5%. As usual, this was a model entry level Chinati Classico with lots of red fruit and earthy flavours together with tangy acidity and firm structure. It had a slightly more austere character than the 05 but was none the worse for that; 15.5/20++.

Chinon Vieilles Vignes 1999 – Philippe Alliet – Alc.12.5% was a charming medium bodied Chinon, sweeter seeming and more “easy drinking” than sometimes from this robust producer, with red fruit with raspberry and currant, some pencil shavings and nice touches of wet leather and enough roundness and ripe tannic grip for balance; 16/20+. (In my previous bottle of this, the “nice touches of wet leather” were magnified into dominating barnyard aromas .)

Chablis 1er cru Vaucoupin 2010 – Domaines Brocard – Alc.12.5% - (c.€13) was medium/light bodied and showed attractive white fruit and floral aromas, moderate minerality, quite lively acidity and some underlying roundness but I prefer my Chablis with more nerve and steely tension; 15.5/20.

Chambolle-Musigny 1996 – Hubert Lignier – Alc.13%. Just about two years ago, I wrote it was all I ask for from a villages Burgundy. The nose was gently fragrant with slightly sour cherry and mineral notes. The palate was medium/light in body, linear and elegantly shaped with a gentle crescendo and structural support towards the quite long finish and the fruit was mingled with minerals and still fresh with lively mouth-watering acidity; 16/20++. In spite of two extra years I don’t want to change even a comma from that.

Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages Réserve des Seigneurs 2009 – Domaine de l’Oratoire St.Martin, F&F Alary – Alc.14.5% made from Grenache 60%, Mourvèdre 30% and Syrah 10%, is this estate’s basic Cairanne and has for many year’s been one of my stand-bys. In June, I wrote –
“Colour was a vigorous deep red, body was full and richer than in many years with plenty of red and dark fruit, and the usual pepper, spice and leather together with smooth/lively acidity and firm tannins. A dry streak which I noticed running through the wine on a previous bottle was attenuated but not completely absent and a mild jamminess was still there. I prefer the 2010 for its being more lively and less cloying. 15/20+.”
The wine was hitting its stride with this bottle (alas my last). The acidity seemed livelier, the dry streak had become submerged and I would no longer use the word “jammy”. A very nice Southern Rhöne; 15.5/20++.[url][/url]