Had last night w/ dinner:
1. ChaloneVnyd CheninBlanc (EG/Chalone AVA; 14.4%; 9 Fr.oak brls; #418 of 2735 btld; Planted in 1919; Drk: 2012-2017: DC) 2007: Med.yellow color; lovely very fragrant/perfumed melony/CB/floral/pear light chalky/mineral slight flinty/Loire-like light spicy/nutmeg lovely complex nose; fairly tart bright/spicy/melony/CB/pear/apple/floral/carnations totally dry light chalky/mineral spicy/nutmeg flavor; very long lovely bright/melony/CB/pear light spicy/nutmeg/floral some chalky/mineral finish; an absolutely beautiful rendition of CB in Calif; not as austere/flinty/mineral as Loire CB. $20.00 (CB)
_________________________
A wee BloodyPulpit:
1. DarrellCorti liked this wine so much that he bought all they had left. I had this about 8 months ago when Darrell first offered the wine and liked it quite a lot then. We recently reordered almost 2 cs worth and this just arrived on Sat. Wanting a white, this is the first thing I spied, so cracked that sucker open. It was even better than I recall from back then.
Most Calif CheninBlancs I find on the tutti-frutti side, a bit too sweet, lacking in acid, and rather simple. And, truth be told, find some/many from the Loire of that same ilk. It's rare that I find a Calif CB that I really like and has enough interest to engage my mind when I'm drinking. This Chalone is definitely not that....one of the best Calif CB's I can recall in yrs.
Darrell asserts that some white wines will age better than many red wines....an assertion to whiich I would heartily concur. He suggests this Chalone might go out another 5 yrs at least, maybe longer. Darrell is usually dead right and I see no reason to doubt his prediction.
____________________
2. How the mighty have fallen: When I first got interested in Calif wines, back in the early '70's, Chalone was one of Calif's legendary icons. Winemaking was under DickGraff (later Peter Watson-Graff) and the estate was guided by PhilWoodward. I recall that PhilipTogni was one of the first winemakers. MichaelMichaud was also in there somewhere.
The white were all barrel-frmtd and barrel-aged in mostly new Fr.oak. They carried a ton of new oak, including the CheninBlanc. A very bizarre style for CheninBlanc. But they always had an intensity of fruit to support the oak and they often aged into remarkable old wines. It was an old-timey Calif style that is roundly rejected by current hip somms and many of today's wine writers who endorse the ABC movement. Too bad.
When Chalone was sold to Diageo...that was pretty much the end of a once great Estate. I've tried the Chalones, including the EstateGrown bottlings and find them uniformly unthrilling. Pleasant enough...but just that. It's like seeing your beautiful hot-chick high school Homecoming queen out working the streets on StrongAvenue at 50+ yrs of age. This '07 CheninBlanc is probably the last glimpse of Chalone's once-great glory that we'll ever see.
Tom

