WTN: Feudi di S. Gregorio Taurasi + questions on Aglianico

Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi Selve di Luoti 1998

I decanted this early this afternoon. While decanting I loved the scent and thought I had found an unspoofulated product that I'd much enjoy: red fruit, rusty and rustic notes wafted out of the decanter. I was happy.

I put on my jogging stuff, but decided to take one more sniff before heading out into the s**w (worst cuss word I know!!) storm. It had totally changed: spoofy, dilly oak wafted out of the decanter. I don't know whether it was this or the s**w which made me so disheartened during the jog.

Now, many hours later, I'm semi-enjoying the wine. The palate ended up being less spoofy than the scent, but even the scent occasionally shows the magic of my first sniff, though the oak does seem prevalent in other sniffs. It is very tannic, but has lots of ripe fruit to keep it in balance. The acidity is fairly high but not as high as expected from the grape. I like the elegantly rustic (if anyone understands that, lol!) taste.

But what I now want to know is who makes unspoofulated Aglianico? I've recently tried Di Majo Norante '01, '03 and Villa Matilde Camarata 1997, and though they gave some true enjoyment (especially the almost Musary Camarata) I would like to find a truly unspoofy but well made Aglianico. Is Rubrato '04 any less spoofy than the Selve di Luoti?

-Otto-

Otto
Rubrato is a very pleasant quaffer, but has nothing like the structure of Taurasi. I like Rubrato and would find it a decent drink to support a starring meal, or for light undemanding drinking. It's not IIRC too sweet and it's definitely got a sense of Italy about it. Personally I'd suggest giving it a go.

As for Taurasi, I've foung them so far to be very aggressive on the tannins and quite painfully dry (not a normal complaint). I'd figured a bit of cellar age would be of interest, but have none in the cellar now and don't see many aged versions about. Apart from the oak which can be noticeable, I didn't find any of them with an overly fruity palate - in fact the fruit always seemed to be desperatelydefending it's honour against the tannin!

regards

Ian

I can tolerate Feudi, but I am much happier with D'angelo from Basilicata - that's a great traditional and rustic Aglianico del Vulture producer, Otto! Like you I am always on the quest to find producers who do not spoof-up their wines!!!

I find Feudi di San Gregori aglianico borderline spoofy to highly spoofy. You might want to give older Mastroberardino Radici or Molettieri cinque querce or riserva Taurasi a shot.

Ian, thanks. The Rubrato is "only" 13€ so I'll try one someday soon. I just came by an old note of mine on the Taurasi 98 from 2003 which mentioned that it is massively tannic and has no fruit. My tastes since then have changed for sure, but the wine also seems to have become friendlier. Apparently the fruit does emerge with patience. And I think the 98 needs quite a bit more patience also.

Paulo and Bill, thanks for the reccos. Judged by the few I've had, this is a grape variety that I think I will like very much if not spoofulated. So I've been thinking of buying a case (if anyone knows a place to get a mixed case in the EU, please let me know!) for a tasting.

Otto
That price isn't too bad - possibly £7-8 over here, which is maybe €10-11. I like it and would pay up to £9 with confidence.

Interesting to see how tastes change! Mine are still (and possibly always will be) in flux. What's interesting though, is there's not many styles that I've gone off, but much more I've developed a taste for. Of those I've lost interest in, it's mostly high alcohol table wines, notably Gewurz and Amarone, plus the very high octane Aussie wines.

regards

Ian

Paulo is right about D'Angelo--just be sure to stick to the Aglianico del Vulture DOC, and not D'Angelo's fancy-pants releases, like the Serra delle Querce IGT, which is 30% merlot and is aged in the dreaded barriques.

Also, Botromango, which by the way makes wonderful whites, is another practitioner of barrique ageing. Skip their Pier delle Vigne if you don't want oak.

The only producer I know of who puts out a reserve wine without resorting to oak is Paternoster, which makes Don Anselmo from very old, very low-yielding vines. It has more forward fruit, making it more "modern," but it has not been gussied up with oak.

I don't dislike Feudi, but I'd agree they are probably one of the most modern/international of producers from the region. I'm very fond of Antonio Caggiano's Aglianicos, but they too may be a bit modern for your taste. You've gotten several suggestions for Aglianico del Vulture, from the neighboring Basilicata region, but personally I tend prefer the versions from Campania. While not technically "Taurasi," wines labelled "Irpinia" are from the same general area. You might look for a producer called Terradora (IIRC), which following a family falling-out now owns the vineyards that used to produce the Mastroberardino wines. (The other part of the family got to keep the brand). Cantina del Taburno's "Fidelis" offers good value from the north of Campania. Bill mentioned the Molettieri, about which I've heard (but can't confirm from experience) very good things.