We had a small crowd (10 total)over for my day-early bday dinner Sunday. Betsy had made cheese straws and grilled garlicky shiitakes as starters, my only contribution was duck liver crostini. The opening wines:
2000 Charles Ellner “Prestige” Brut Champagne
The Ellner wines tend to be in a toasty/full style with a hint of oxidative notes- not my usual preferred, but sometimes nice for a change (at right price). This one appeals- powerful and full, but with snappy acids and freshness. B+
NV Tissot “Indigene” Cremant de Jura
Brisk, pure, fresh, I like a lot. B++
1994 Verget Chevalier-Montrachet
So, pretty low expectations for this. Verget has terrible reputation for premOx, and though official PO era doesn’t start till 95/96, I think ‘94 wasn’t considered a particularly ageworthy vintage to start. This was a throwaway in a mixed lot. Indeed, some oxidative notes, but there is good acidity, and some interesting mineral notes. Still some quince fruit, lemon. Actually seems to get better with air. A tad past it, but still interesting to drink. B-/C+
Betsy had braised 3 ducks with turnips and shallots, made mashed potatoes, and a salad with marinated mushrooms & gruyere for the main meal.
1986 Ch. Meyney
Tannins mostly resolved but plenty of life left, smooth cassis fruit accented with a little barnyard and earth. More cedary with a little time. B+/A-
1989 Fonsalette Reserve Cotes du Rhone
Full, spicy, cedary, good but not especially complex. B+/B
1982 Burgess “Vintage Selection” Cabernet Sauvignon
This showed more oomph than last bottle, crunchy red fruit and cedar,B+
2008 Chevillon Nuits St Georges Vieilles Vignes
Cherries, earth, and spice, fullbodied with some tannin, lots of potential but I like now. B+
1994 Petit Village (Pomerol)
Pomerol is my preferred commune for 1994 Bordeaux, but not based on this wine. Still some gritty tannin, light on fruit, some greenness. Some people liked. C+
For cheese we had a Grafton cheddar, Tomme de Savoie, & Pont l’Eveque; Rachel had brought a flourless cake (3 gluten-freers at one dinner!), and we had a dessert wine:
1995 Baumard Quarts de Chaumes
Nice showing! Quince, orange zest, honey, long and full with mineral and beeswax. Complex, youthful, deep. A-
For my actual birthday we went to La Panitiere in Rye, where I had a Groupon for a tasting menu for 2. We started with a “Mikado of Asparagus” (crosshatched stack of white and green with green apple, with grapefruit dressing and mayo, plus microgreens). Then fresh pasta with wonderfully tender calamari, baby octopus, and shrimp. Meat was mignonettes of beef, with eggplant puree, herb salad, and broccolini. A course with marinated goat cheese, and then souffles (I don’t eat dessert, but Betsy sampled both the Gran Marnier and chocolate souffles). With lots of wine (mostly) red night before, and an 1982 tasting tonight, I opted for just getting a half bottle, the 2011 Porte du Caillou Sancerre. Grass, gooseberry, & grapefruit, a 3G wine, it’s not really compelling but it’s crisp and a good backdrop for all of the dishes but the beef (I contemplated a glass of red, but passed). B-
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.