WTN: 3 satisfying Bordeaux, Barolo, Crozes-H, wh.Santenay

Barolo Vigna Rionda 1995 – Fratelli Oddero – Alc.13.5% reminds me a little of some of the 1994 clarets which I have been drinking recently in that it showed grainier tannins and rather shorter length than in the best years. However the bouquet was beautiful if a bit subdued showing lovely notes of rose and tar. The palate was medium/full showing lively acidity, plentiful minerals and similar aromatics to the nose encased in quite firm and somewhat angular tannins; 15.5/20.

Santenay La Comme (W) 2000 – Louis Jadot – Alc.13.5%. The previous bottle was opened 5 years ago and I wrote then –
C : Quite deep yellow with green tints. N: Very subdued at first but, with a little coaxing, nice notes of white fruit and minerals with slight hints of burnished butter came up. P: Good body and length showing good “gras” and minerality and firmly structured finish; like the nose it was aromatically reticent but towards the end of the bottle it opened up somewhat.
The aromatic reticence has now disappeared, there were some cedar notes and the burnished butter is perhaps slightly more prominent. Mercifully there was no trace of (prem)ox. A nice white Burg; 16/20++.

Crozes-Hermitage Tête de Cuvée 2003 – Yann Chave– Alc.14%. A good wine but hard to identify as Northern Rhône, no doubt due to the torrid vintage. Medium/full body, rounder and richer with sweeter fruit than usual, with a slightly metallic streak and still firm tannins towards the finish; 15.5/20++.

Château Poujeaux Moulis en Médoc 1994 – Jean Theil – Alc.12.5% - was a third good 1994 Médoc opened recently (the others were Pontet-Canet and Léoville-Poyferré). What is perhaps more surprising is that I do not want to change anything from a note on a bottle opened about 4 years ago, viz -
This is a very good Poujeaux. It is sturdy and flavourful without the alleged 1994 faults of unripe Cabernet, angular dry tannins and abrupt finish.
C: Quite deep red with little sign of ageing.
N: Well developed fragrant red fruit with, at first, an impression of stalkiness transforming into a dab of sweat.
P: At first it seemed a little small albeit sturdy but either it filled out or my palate adjusted because mouth-fill became more than satisfactory and enhanced the lively fruit, fragrance and earthy minerality encased in resolved structure. This is not a hedonistic Poujeaux like the 1997 (but my last bottle I opened of that was fading somewhat) and is more in the austere and savoury vein of 1988. This is what good bourgeois claret is all about; indeed Poujeaux was punching well above its weight at that time; 16/20+.

Domaine de Courteillac Bordeaux Supérieur 2009 – Dominique Méneret - Alc.13.5% - (c.€10). I buy this excellent St.Émilion ringer nearly every vintage. When I first tasted this at a local wine merchant it seemed richer but also flabbier than in most vintages. However, this bottle opened with dinner showed that the rich and quite complex fruit was complemented by enough mouth-watering acidity and structure for good balance with food; well up to standard 15.5/20++ QPR.

Château Potensac Médoc cru Bougeois 1995 – Delon – Alc.13% - (c.€17-20 for current vintages). About a year ago, I wrote –
Colour was still robust with little sign of bricking and the nose was nicely expressive showing plum like fruit, earthy mineral, Médocain “green” edge and hints of graphite. The palate was medium/full, vigorous, still fruity in a quite primary way and aromatically expressive with firm tannins of the finish but without any angular dryness which I have found on the tannins of many 95s. Not especially elegant or long but just the sort of sturdy cru bourgeois which I like and an encouraging sign that the 95s may be entering a good drinking window; 16/20.
Much of that description applies to last night’s bottle but this time I did find angular dryness on the tannins and enjoyed the wine less. This may be a function of the pairings, chicken last night and steak, I think, a year ago which may have softened the tannins. 15/20 with the chicken.

Thank you for your notes.

It will be interesting to see how the 95s and when come into their time.

I tries to snag what was left of the `09 Poujeaux after the saturday tasting but was beaten to the punch!

50% Cab Sauv, some Petit Verdot, $72, big tannins, some thought high acidity, savoury, tobacco, nice balance. I noted tight nose with oak tones , some sweetness, licorice, has a lot of class.

Tim, the Courteillac sounds like a wine I would enjoy....if I could find it!

I tries to snag what was left of the `09 Poujeaux after the saturday tasting but was beaten to the punch!

50% Cab Sauv, some Petit Verdot, $72, big tannins, some thought high acidity, savoury, tobacco, nice balance. I noted tight nose with oak tones , some sweetness, licorice, has a lot of class.

Tim, the Courteillac sounds like a wine I would enjoy....if I could find it!

Bob, the 2009 Poujeaux has been made by the new owners, the Cuvelier family, who have a good reputation. Bad luck about its having been sold out before you got to it. Console yourself by the thought that, tf it matures like the excellent Poujeaux made by the Theil family in the 90s, it should be drinking beautifully by around 2020 - 2024 . Poujeaux 07, a lesser but more forward vintage, is on sale in the Carrefour Foires aux Vins here for €19.

It's hard not to like the Courteillac. When I served the 08 to a music loving friend (therefore having good taste ), he thought it was an important St.Émilion; but that would take many more years to be so agreeable.