by Tim York » Fri Sep 07, 2012 12:12 pm
Saumur L’Insolite 2008 – Domaine des Roches Neuves, Thierry Germain – Alc.13% - (€16 for 2010), made from Chenin, was a brilliant medium+ bodied, long and very dry white with a laser bright focus, peach and wax notes, lovely slightly gritty minerals, crisp acidity and an underlying roundness making it suitable for quite rich dishes; 17.5/20.
Saumur-Champigny 2010 – Domaine des Roches Neuves, Thierry Germain – Alc.13% - (c.€8) inspired slightly less enthusiasm than superb entry level 2010s from B. Baudry and Jacky Blot but was nevertheless a very enjoyable mouth filling Champigny with medium + body, robust red fruit, graphite, earthy minerals and just a touch of rusticity on the finish which could refine away in a few months time; 15.5/20 with + potential; QPR.
Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 5ème Grand Cru Classé 1994 – Tesseron – Alc.12.5% was another example of a 1994 left bank claret which has developed more satisfactorily than the vintage’s mediocre reputation would lead one to expect. Colour was still quite deep showing little signs of age and the nose was expressive with savoury red fruit, a welcome dab of green, gritty minerals and a hint of cedar. The palate was medium/full showing quite primary red fruit, decent depth, more gritty minerals and lively acidity with just a hint of spikiness in the tannins on a finish with fair length; 16/20.
Cahors 2010 – Château Croze de Pys – Alc.13.5% - (<€5). I have bought quite a few bottles of this cuvée since the 2008 vintage. As usual body was medium/light but the aromas and savoury fruit were pure and lovely with red/dark fruit copiously laced with anise and a touch of liquorice, lively acidity and decent structure and finish. The 2009 showed rather sweeter fruit and fuller body and, if I remember well, the 2008 crisper acidity. A supple wine for drinking young which manages to conserve real Cahors character; 15.5/20 and superb QPR!!
Valtellina Superiore Sassella 1998 – Conti Sertoli Salis – Alc.12.5% made from Nebbiolo (chiavennasca) 95% together with Pignola, Rossola and Brugnola valtellinesi, was one of a bin-end lot picked up for €5 each a few years ago and the bottles have kept much better than I expected. Like its predecessors, this was a distinguished bottle with a very original flavour profile in a somewhat dark savoury register; colour was a quite light but vigorous garnet, the palate was classically shaped with good length, the body was medium/light but firmly structured and the flavours were intense with aromas that were of sour cherry mingled with minerals, fine herbs and tar; 16/20++ QPR!!! at the bin-end price.
Last edited by Tim York on Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:55 am, edited 2 times in total.
Tim York