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WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

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Tim York

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WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Tim York » Fri Sep 07, 2012 12:12 pm

Saumur L’Insolite 2008 – Domaine des Roches Neuves, Thierry Germain – Alc.13% - (€16 for 2010), made from Chenin, was a brilliant medium+ bodied, long and very dry white with a laser bright focus, peach and wax notes, lovely slightly gritty minerals, crisp acidity and an underlying roundness making it suitable for quite rich dishes; 17.5/20.

Saumur-Champigny 2010 – Domaine des Roches Neuves, Thierry Germain – Alc.13% - (c.€8) inspired slightly less enthusiasm than superb entry level 2010s from B. Baudry and Jacky Blot but was nevertheless a very enjoyable mouth filling Champigny with medium + body, robust red fruit, graphite, earthy minerals and just a touch of rusticity on the finish which could refine away in a few months time; 15.5/20 with + potential; QPR.

Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 5ème Grand Cru Classé 1994 – Tesseron – Alc.12.5% was another example of a 1994 left bank claret which has developed more satisfactorily than the vintage’s mediocre reputation would lead one to expect. Colour was still quite deep showing little signs of age and the nose was expressive with savoury red fruit, a welcome dab of green, gritty minerals and a hint of cedar. The palate was medium/full showing quite primary red fruit, decent depth, more gritty minerals and lively acidity with just a hint of spikiness in the tannins on a finish with fair length; 16/20.

Cahors 2010 – Château Croze de Pys – Alc.13.5% - (<€5). I have bought quite a few bottles of this cuvée since the 2008 vintage. As usual body was medium/light but the aromas and savoury fruit were pure and lovely with red/dark fruit copiously laced with anise and a touch of liquorice, lively acidity and decent structure and finish. The 2009 showed rather sweeter fruit and fuller body and, if I remember well, the 2008 crisper acidity. A supple wine for drinking young which manages to conserve real Cahors character; 15.5/20 and superb QPR!!

Valtellina Superiore Sassella 1998 – Conti Sertoli Salis – Alc.12.5% made from Nebbiolo (chiavennasca) 95% together with Pignola, Rossola and Brugnola valtellinesi, was one of a bin-end lot picked up for €5 each a few years ago and the bottles have kept much better than I expected. Like its predecessors, this was a distinguished bottle with a very original flavour profile in a somewhat dark savoury register; colour was a quite light but vigorous garnet, the palate was classically shaped with good length, the body was medium/light but firmly structured and the flavours were intense with aromas that were of sour cherry mingled with minerals, fine herbs and tar; 16/20++ QPR!!! at the bin-end price.
Last edited by Tim York on Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:55 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Fri Sep 07, 2012 3:18 pm

We can usually rely on you Tim to find good Cahors. Some new ones on the shelf here, maybe in the style you describe? Fine notes all round I`d say.
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Matt Richman » Sat Sep 08, 2012 2:16 am

IIRC 1994 Pontet Canet was a special vintage, the first that Tesseron had full control of the wine making. He was extremely proud of that wine and I think it was one of the best successes of the vintage. I like-but-don't-love the 1994 vintage. Since it's unheralded you can often find a 1994 bargain. But the wine is always a bit hard and ungenerous.
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Tim York » Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:05 am

Matt, thanks for that background about Pontet-Canet 1994. Do you know how its 1995 is developing? I've been holding off my 95s because, up to now, I've found that few have lived up to the hype they got at the outset, but I live in hope.

Re the Saumur-Champigny 10 from Thierry Germain, I opened another bottle last night and was already less conscious of any rusticity. I also realise that I omitted to mention graphite in its flavour profile and have amended the TN.
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Matt Richman » Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:55 am

I like-but-don't-love the 1994 vintage. Since it's unheralded you can often find a 1994 bargain. But the wine is always a bit hard and ungenerous.


Sorry, to be clear I was speaking here of the 1994 vintage across Bordeaux in general, not Pontet Canet in particular (although the words could go for 1994 PC as well).

My experience with the 1995 Pontet Canet is limited. The last time I had it was 2 years ago and you can find my notes here:

https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=11698

Personally I'm about ready to test some of the 1995 Bordeaux that I have in quantity. Which if any have you had success with?
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Tim York » Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:43 am

Matt, from my own cellar, I have enjoyed some bourgeois 95s like Phélan-Ségur, Verdignan and Potensac but have yet to broach Sociando-Mallet and Poujeaux, let alone any GC. I've have some at tastings with still unattractively dry tannins.

Your CT notes are encouraging but it sounds as if more time would be beneficial in most cases.
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Mark S » Sat Sep 08, 2012 4:07 pm

Dang: 5 euros for a Valtellina? I'd be a buyer!

Tim, have you tried Germain's ungrafted Samur?
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Tim York » Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:39 am

Mark S wrote:Tim, have you tried Germain's ungrafted Samur?


Thanks for that tip, Mark. I had overlooked the existence of that cuvée, even though it gets a very favourable mention in my French reference books. I'll enquire about it at Germain's nearby importer.
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Re: WTN: Red& brilliant white Saumur,Pontet-Canet & 2 great QPRs

by Andrew Bair » Sun Sep 09, 2012 5:43 pm

Hi Tim -

Thank you for the interesting notes. Sounds like a great bargain on the Conti Sertori Salis Valtellina!

Anyway, I remember liking the 2005 vintage of this wine at the Boston Wine Expo a few years ago. They also had a fascinating white Chiavennasca. Unfortunately, C.S.S. is not imported to my state.

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