Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Spätlese – 9 – 1990 - Tyrell – Alc.9.5%.
All the correct complex elements, mineral and white fruit aromatics, kerosene tinged minerals, gently sweet underlying roundness and lively acidity, seemed to be there but, with sole, it seemed disjointed and lacking in focus with a slight hollowness in the middle. As often with Riesling, Chenin and mineral Chard, moving on to Loire goat cheese seemed to operate a miracle by filling in the middle, improving the focus and bringing out additional complexity. Nevertheless I think that I kept this too long given the limitations for delicate whites of my passive cellar; 15.5/20 with the fish 16.5/20 with the goat cheese.
Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes 1989 – René-Noël Legrand – Alc.13%.
I have considered previous bottles close to perfection for Loire Cabernet franc and this bottle was still a beauty but for the first time a bit over the hill. Colour showed some bricking at the rim. The nose showed some lovely mature red fruit impregnated with pencil shavings, minerals and noble forestall greenness. The palate was medium weight, elegant and long with some underlying “gras” and gentle sweetness akin to that of unsugared Darjeeling tea. So what was missing? Only a still youthful vibrancy which I recall in the previous bottle (about 5 years ago); 17/20 going down.