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WTN: Sushi and Champagne

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Sushi and Champagne

by Dale Williams » Thu Aug 23, 2012 10:16 am

A nice group gathered at Mishima last night for sushi and Champagne- I quite enjoyed the restaurant. We went omakase and they brought out a nice succession of dishes- tuna tataki, followed by a sashimi platter (red snapper, aji, toro, hamachi, more), then grilled yellowtail collar, a large nigiri platter, a few small rolls, and then tamago.

Overall I thought the wines showed quite well, there was nothing I wasn’t happy to drink:

The 2002 flight

2002 Vilmart & Cie “Coeur de Cuvee”
Smoky/oxidative, creamy texture, interesting and complex but a little heavier/rounder than my ideal. I liked, but I think most others liked more than I did. B+/B

2002 Marie-Noelle Ledru “Brut Nature”
This was austere and almost screeching when first poured, but quickly became more generous. Crispest/brightest wine of night, good length, complex. A-/B+

2002 Moet and Chandon “Dom Perignon”
Full, rich, yeasty, long. We discussed how it was possible to make millions of bottles and keep quality up, but for me they’ve done it this vintage. A-

The 1998 Flight
1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne BdB
Bready, honied notes, good crispness underneath. Not my favorite vintage of Comtes, but I liked (maybe more than some others). B+

1998 Veuve Cliquot “La Grand Dame”
Toasty, full, this was ok but just didn’t ring my bells, others liked more. B/B-

The 1996 Flight
1996 Bollinger RD
Very full and rich, lemon meringue and coffee, I think this is very good just not my favored style. B

1996 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill
Wow, just wow, an excellent bottle of an excellent wine. Powerful but with plenty of crispness and vitality. A

The pinks
2002 Bollinger Champagne “Grande Annee” Rose
I know general wisdom is rose Champagne is drunk earlier than blanc, but this wine struck me as needing time. Big, good underlying acids, some earthy notes under fruit, just seems like something lurking. For now, B/B+

NV Camille Saves Rose
This was a bonus bottle, but the little NV that could. Strawberries and orange zest, nice balance, fun wine. B+/A-

Overall a very good night. Thanks to Paul for organizing, and everyone for wine and company.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Sushi and Champagne

by David M. Bueker » Thu Aug 23, 2012 12:46 pm

Love the '96 Pol Roger SWC. Wish I had bought a bunch when it was remotely affordable.

As for the Bolly Rosé, I have aged prior vintages with great success. I'm ot touching any of the 2002 for a while yet.
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Andrew Bair

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Re: WTN: Sushi and Champagne

by Andrew Bair » Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:47 pm

Dale -

Thank you for the great notes. I'm with both you and David on the 1996 Sir Winston Churchill - this was showing quite well when I had the chance to try it a couple of years ago. I also had the 1998 Grande Dame at roughly the same time, and came away largely unimpressed, so we're in agreement there as well.

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