by Tim York » Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:48 am
These two wine are recommendations of Éric Boschmann, a popular French language Belgian wine journalist, who has the merit of reviewing modestly priced wines currently available in supermarkets. In my search for value, I often try one bottle and buy more if I like them.
Vinho Regional Lisboa red 2010 – Quinta do Espirito Santo – alc.14.5% - (<€4) , made from Tinto Roriz and Castelao grapes.
Deeply coloured, quite fully bodied and honestly rustic, it was original in aromas and flavour with its lively fruit and acidity and hints of quinine on the finish being dominated by notes of aniseed as if quite a lot of Pernod had been spilled into the vat. Intriguing once in a while but not, IMO, really suitable for Boschmann’s readership but kudos for his daring to recommend it; 14.5/20.
Dão vinho branco 2010 – Quinta do Rodeio – Alc.13% - (<€4). This one was much more to my taste than the previous. The nose was attractive with exotic fruit, fresh grapes tinged with honey, spice and mineral traces. The palate was medium/light bodied and not quite bone dry with pretty fruit exuding similar aromas to the nose, some “gras” and enough smooth acidity for balance. I liked it with its fish pairing but Germaine complained that it was too sweet and needed a richer preparation or a more spicy Mediterranean recipe. My only criticisms were that it was slightly small in the mouth and that it needed to be kept cool, say <15°C, to ward off cloying, but at that price one can hardly complain and I will buy more; 15/20++ QPR!!.
Tim York