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WTN: Some dandies

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Some dandies

by Florida Jim » Thu Aug 02, 2012 1:28 pm

2004 Rhys, Pinot Noir Home Vineyard:
13.4% alcohol; extremely expansive aromatics, opened the bottle and you could smell it across the room; mostly dark fruit, somewhat sweet, touch of jalapeño, noticeable tannin; medium length, slightly drying finish. The whole-cluster here is noticeable in the spice and tannin elements and it seems to shorten the finish. Not on the level of Rhys 2008 and later wines but still good pinot.

2009 Ryme Cellars, Ribolla Gialla Vare Vnyd.:
13.1% alcohol; gold color with some suspended particulate; deep, rich, tannic and lasting. A wine that will never be for everybody but is very attractive to me; loaded with character. With salad nicoise, very good.

2005 de Villaine, Mercury Les Montots:
12.5% alcohol; closed and tannic upon opening; with air and a plate of grilled lamb with polenta and ratatouille, something wonderful. Somewhat Pommard-like with dark fruit, earth tones and textures, and evident structure but a bit lighter in weight. Can use many years in the cellar but still deliver pleasure now with decanting and the right food. In my experience, a very dependable producer of distinctive Burgundy.

2009 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir Amber Ridge:
It was not over-oaked (which I expected) but it was so ripe that the texture was milk-shake, the flavors were stewed and it was way too sweet for me. Not my style.

2006 Edmund Vatan, Sancerre Clos la Néore:
13% alcohol; shows every sign of premox; advanced color, lack of freshness, nutty almost oaky flavors and a short and sour finish. One for the drain.

1999 Bizot, Vosne-Romanee VV:
12.5% alcohol; smells and tastes like a northern Rhone with olive, grilled meat and a sauvage element (baby Echézeaux maybe?); silken texture, long finish. Not what I expected; even so, a wine with character that was excellent with a pesto and chicken pasta.

And then there was a Chambolle dinner with six winos and coq-a-vin:
1969 Leroy, Musigny: Came out of the bottle a bit tired but got better throughout the meal; lacy, composed, elegant and resolved with secondary character and charm; lovely wine.
2003 Vogue, Les Amoureuses: Immense in every way; assuming it can resolve, it will need at least a decade.
1994 Laurent, Les Amoureuses: medium weight, satin textured and more typical of the vineyard; a rather pretty wine.
2002 Magnien, Les Amoureuses: also of its place and more integrated than the Laurent; fine wine.
1999 Barthod, Les Fuées: Yound and tannic; lots of stuffing and requires food.
2005 Laurent, Chambolle-Musigny: a bit oaky and simple.
2009 Clair, Les Veroilles: Finesse, elegance and class with fine grained fruit and a beautiful, detailed finish; exceptional wine.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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