Château Haut-Bailly – Pessac-Léognan – 1990 - Sanders – Alc. 12.5%; estate’s varietal composition (2009) is 65% CabSauv, 25% Merlot, 8% CabFranc and 2% Petit Verdot.
As recently as some 3 years ago, I continued to be a little disappointed by this wine, finding it correct but lacking in expressiveness and charm. I am glad to say that it at last unbending.
Colour was of medium depth ruby/garnet with distinct bricking at the rim just as 3 years ago. However the nose was much more open showing nice claret fruit, touches of forest floor and minerals with some generous roundness and the typically left bank fresh (almost green) edge. The palate was well shaped with a crescendo towards the firmly structured finish and good length, medium bodied with good depth, good fruit giving off aromas similar to those on the nose and 1990 generosity. The wine was always elegant but the severity has moderated, greater complexity had developed and a classy charm has emerged; so digestible and moreish that I was tempted to open another bottle; 17/20++.
Château Grand-Puy Ducasse Pauillac 1996 – Alc.13% has become a very satisfying and still quite youthful seeming claret. Colour was much more primary deep red than the Haut-Bailly’s. The nose was expressive with fresh red fruit, forestall green edge and some minerals. The medium bodied palate seemed a touch hollow at first but the filled in. There was good depth and fruit though it was rather shorter than the Haut-Bailly; my left-bank 1996 clarets have been worth waiting for; 16/20+.
Vin de Pays des Cevennes 1995 – Domaine de Baruel, Reiner Pfefferkorn – Alc.13%, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend. Opening this bottle makes me feel nostalgic about La Vigneronne in Kensington in the days of Liz and Mike Berry. It was one of their discoveries. My previous bottle had veered in a lean and mean direction but this one was back to form.
Colour was still very youthful with some purple tints. The nose showed dark fruit with a lot of damson and minerals and a touch of violet. The palate was full bodied, savoury, austerely expressive and surprisingly youthful with lively acidity, dark plum fruit, good complexity, depth and roundness in mid-palate and still firm tannic structure supporting the finish. I used to think of this cuvée as a good ringer for Trévallon but it has got increasingly Bordelais with time and I could no longer detect much Syrah influence; 16.5/20++.
Rueda 2011 – Marques de Riscal – (c.€7,50) made from Verdejo. A decently crisp and refreshing very dry white with tangy acidity, some minerals and a slightly ointment like after taste. Slightly less tangy though and rounder than my memory of 2010. I will bear it in mind for our first moules marinières of the season; 14.5/20++.