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WTN: Ciders

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Hoke

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WTN: Ciders

by Hoke » Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:01 pm

For a column I write, I posted a writeup on the first Cider Pub in Portland---as far as I know, it may be the only cider pub in the U.S. totally dedicated to cider and mead (with a bare handful of specialty beers for mixing cider/beer drinks).

Here's the core of the article enumerating many of the ciders.

It’s a great way to discover different types of cider; the night we were there they offered a house-made (literally, made in the back of the pub) cider aged in used barrels with Jameson Irish Whiskey, with compelling toasty coconut tones in the finish; a soft and sweet and compulsively drinkable Woodchuck Pear cider; an English Carlton Pippin cider, much tarter and considerably more full-bodied in style; and two tasty local ciders from EZ Orchards, a 2010 vintage and a blend of 2010/2011 vintage.

The sixth tap cider of the day was Weston’s Stowford Press, a traditional, middle of the road English cider from Herefordshire, pleasant and thirst quenching, with mild and lightly sweet apple flavors.

Each of the draft ciders had a distinctive aroma and flavor and mouthfeel. They were as different and wide ranging as beers or wines. And just as fascinating.

A side board listed small pours (8 ounces) of selected glass pour items, including four bottled ciders, three different meads made from honey…including one made from the aguamiel (honey water) sap of the raw agave plant, from which tequila is also made.

We couldn’t resist the glass pour of Petri Tegri Sidra Natural, a Basque cider from Spain. Basque ciders are famous throughout Europe for their full body and rich complexity, their surpassingly tart, hard, dry style, and their affinity for food. The Petri Tegri exactly fit the description---this is a fantastic food cider, complex and evocative enough to go with savory and spicy foods; we quickly ate some parmesan garlic potato chips to verify that, and the cider blossomed out even more in response to the salt and savory of the chips.

On another occasion, Smith graciously agreed to lead a guided tasting tour of ciders, including local Blue Mountain Dry Cider, light and crisp and refreshing; Oliver’s Herefordshire Dry Cider, bottle blended and aged in oak casks for 8 months; Etienne Dupont Cidre Bouché Brut de Normandie 2010, a sparkling delight; the local Wandering Aengus Wanderlust 2010, from Salem, Oregon, with its name derived from a poem by William Butler Yeats, and naming the percentage and types of apples in the blend; Crispin Natural Hard Apple Cider, which despite the name showed some hints of added flavoring with a little Jolly Rancher bouquet; and the granddaddy of them all, the impressive Sarasola Astigerragako Sagarda, a bold and full bodied Basque sidra natural from Spain. For most in the tasting it was like a brave new world of flavor opening up in front of them.

The bartenders are friendly and happy to talk about ciders as much as you wish, and they are informed but not arrogant about it. It’s obvious they have a passion for what they do, and like to share that passion with their customers…but only when the customers show interest.

Off to the side of the bar is a bewildering array of different ciders, encompassing every style imaginable. Amongst the 130+ offerings are numerous American ciders as well as more exotic international ones, the famed French cidre bouchê and pommeau, even pricy sparkling brut ciders from Normandy, and numerous other Basque and Asturian ciders from Spain, along with an abundance of English and Celtic ciders in an array of styles.


There was a stunning list of 170 ciders---current count, the owner said there would be more when he found them or they came in season.
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James Roscoe

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Re: WTN: Ciders

by James Roscoe » Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:45 am

Nicely done Hoke. I would think certain ciders could really be excellent on a hot, humid east coast summer day. I am surprised they are practically unknown out here.
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Re: WTN: Ciders

by Hoke » Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:03 pm

James, it's fascinating getting to taste all the different ciders. Almost as much variety of apple varieties and styles as in wine. Even the type that would correspond to the "orange' wines. :D

I had convinced myself a few years ago that I didn't "like cider". I had tried a couple of the widely distributed commercial ciders and found them uninteresting, superficial, and dully synthetic. Then I had a couple of friends who had some apple trees and gleefully made their won cider, so each time they did I would taste it.

So I had concluded I didn't like "cider". Actually, what I didn't like was the industrial ciders, and with my friends it turned out not that I didn't like cider per se: I didn't like the particular cider make by those particular apples.

I don't believe that ciders will ever be as compelling and constant for me as wines, spirits and beers are---but there is a lot to like in the cider world. And like every good thing, the good ciders have stories behind them that are interesting.
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Re: WTN: Ciders

by James Roscoe » Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:24 pm

When we were in SFO and Napa last Sept. I was surprised by how ubiquitous pear cider and apple cider were at every bar. I found the pear cider to be very refreshing. It wasn't especially deep, but it was a great drink after being out and about touring. You see some apple ciders here in the DC area, but anything else is a mystery. It's too bad.
Yes, and how many deaths will it take 'til he knows
That too many people have died?
The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind
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Re: WTN: Ciders

by Victorwine » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:01 pm

James wrote;
I am surprised they are practically unknown out here.

Cider making in US will never be what it once was back in colonial times and “Early America”. There is a big difference between cider apples and table apples or eating apples. (Cider apples do not make good table or eating apples and table or eating apples do not make good cider apples). Fifteen varieties of apples make up 90% of all the apples grown commercially in the US and they are members of the table or eating apple varieties, not very suitable for cider production. Don’t get me wrong there are thousands of varieties of apples grown in the US but the cider varieties of yesteryear are more or less gone of just totally forgotten about. Sourcing high quality cider apples is not so easy. Unlike grape vines, which could take 4 to 5 years to produce a “decent” crop, apple trees could take 10 years. With that said however here in NY we are seeing an increasing amount of cider being produced by “artesian” cider makers.

Here’s a couple of interesting articles;

http://www.slowfoodusa.org/index.php/pr ... der_apple/


http://homepage.ntlworld.com/scrumpy/cider/ciderapp.htm

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Re: WTN: Ciders

by James Roscoe » Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:04 am

I don't go to high end bars much, but I would love to see artesian ciders, particularly pear ciders, on more lists.

I am also surprised not to see them in places like Williamsburg.
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The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind
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Re: WTN: Ciders

by Brian Gilp » Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:55 am

Many years ago I worked at a winery for a while and the winemaker then was just starting to play with making cider. I remember it as something wonderful. I left when he split to start his own winery. The other day I googled him just to see if he was still making wine and sure enough he makes an artisan cider as well. I had already planned to ship in a case when the weather permits so James, I will try to remember to contact you when I get it and bring you a bottle or two.

Info is here if anyone is interested. http://www.thomasfamilywinery.us/cider

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