WTN: Uhlen B 2001; a great dry from the Mosel valley.

Uhlen “B” Blaufüsser Lay (side labelled Winningen Uhlen QbA) 2001 – Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein – Alc.13%, made from Riesling.

A few days ago we had some discussion about the demise of “real” Kabinett and I suggested that the Mosel region is rarely suitable for dry wines and that the wines of Heymann-Löwenstein are not really dry. Well, this bottle contradicts both statements.
Colour was veering towards gold. The nose was deliciously fresh and fragrant with white fruit, flower and mineral elements beautifully melded together. The palate was medium/light, linear and long with a backbone unusual in Mosel and was definitely dry, if not bone dry (I would guess 5-6 g/l RS). The fruit, minerals and aromatics were delicately complex, the acidity mouth-watering and the whole superbly focussed; 17.5/20.

The less up-market cuvée, Schieferterrassen, was deliciously crisp in 2001 and I finished my bottles years ago but more recent vintages which have come my way have had a noticeable sweetness. Others have also commented that H-L’s wines are not so dry nowadays. Any experience to report?

I will spare you my ritual rant on labelling because I guess that this VDP estate has moved on to GG, etc. labelling in recent years.

[David M. Bueker]

Well it certainly is not real kabinett, so not sure where you get the idea that this wine contradicts the demise of real kabinett. An 11 year old, 13% alcohol wine does not make the case for the current life of kabinett.

For the most part, I would expect Lowenstein's wines to show dry even if they are not analytically bone dry, especially from a vintage with good acidity such as 2001.

Your move.

David, read what I wrote, please?

I suggested that the Mosel region is rarely suitable for dry wines and that the wines of Heymann-Löwenstein are not really dry. Well, this bottle contradicts both statements.

[David M. Bueker]

Tim,

Just betting that there might be a bit more sugar in that wine than you think, and that it's masked by the acidity of 2001.

Tim,

Just betting that there might be a bit more sugar in that wine than you think, and that it's masked by the acidity of 2001.

You may be right, David. Whatever the sugar and acidity numbers, it was a winning formula in 2001 .