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WTN: Low bridge

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David M. Bueker

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WTN: Low bridge

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:24 am

Low acid that is...

1999 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese
Opened in response to some negative comments on another bottle of this from someone I trust. His comment was that there was no acid in the wine whatsoever. Well I wouldn't go quite that far, but it sure is low acid. Pale yellow color, aromas of yellow plums, peach and a hint of cherries. There's still the tiniest bit of spritz on entry, though about 2 minutes later it is all gone. What is left is equisitely...boring! The wine wraps the palate like an old, hooded sweatshirt. It's soft, enveloping and has as much character as a Bill Belichik press conference. There's a hint of acid on the finish, and a little bit of minerality pokes through, but overall the wine feels syrupy and flat rather than having any of the invigorating life and complexity that is the hallmark of Donnhoff's better wines from the Brucke. The blandness of this bottle is largely the result of the most boring vintage in recent memory. Serve over pancakes.
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