About a month ago, I organized a Tuscan wine dinner, basically an excuse to get some of my tasting group (also dear friends) together for the last time before I leave town, but also a chance for me to finally have all five of the Tuscan DOCG reds side-by-side (plus a Super Tuscan). First the notes, then a few reflections.
May 26, 2012
Poggio alle Sughere, Morellino di Scansano 2008
On the nose, nice dark berry fruit, herbs, and whiff of sea salt. Similar on the palate, with wonderful, savory body, and mineral. I love it! A tremendous value at $11. Drink now. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Cab. Sauv. **1/2
Ambra, Montefortini, Carmignano 2008
Good nose, aromatic but reserved. Nice, dark, bitter cherry, with hints of orange rind, plum/tomato, herbs, and flowers, with lots of spice. Serious, and needs more time. 5 years or more ahead of it. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cab. Sauv., 5% Canaiolo, 5% Misc. ***
Avignonesi, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008
Lovely nose of cherry, orange rind, flowers, salty earth/gravel. Dark cherry, black cherry, blackberry, citrus rind, spice/mineral, and supple, succulent tannin. Some glycerin too. Good breeding here. Early maturing, drink over the next 3 years. 85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Mammolo. ***
Monsanto, Riserva, Chianti Classico 2006
Wonderful, savory nose of rich cherry, herbs/tobacco, and orange rind. Similar on the palate, with wonderful, juicy, bright berry fruits, citrus rind, and some dark violet notes. Succulent body and good structure. Lovely. A very fine Chianti. Up to 10 years ahead of it. 90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino. ***1/2
Collelceto, Brunello di Montalcino 2006
Excellent Montalcino nose of dark cherry, orange rind, herbs, and earth, with a bit of mint. Similar on the palate, with pungent cherry, high toned blackberry, orange rind, and sweet herbs/mint. Wonderful fruit and body. Very pure, not very earthy. Both succulent and savory. 10 to 15 years ahead of it. ***1/2
Canonica a Ceretto, Sandiavolo, Toscana 2003
The third time I've tasted this as just as lovely as before. Dark, dense, rich fruits, orange rind, floral notes, wonderful aromatics, and a wonderful, slightly tart finish. A great finish! Reaching full maturity, with 5 more years at least to go. ****
Just a few reflections. 2008 seems to be a charming vintage, with dark, attractive fruit, and supple tannins - it's a vintage that will please rather than impress. 2006 on the other hand is structured, with excellent body, and striking purity, leaning toward red fruits - although I dare say that 2008 appeals to me more (in much the same way that while I respect 2005 Bordeaux, I adore 2006). I had hoped that this tasting would illustrate the differences between the Tuscan DOCG's especially Carmignano and Vino Nobile. While the Morellino, Chianti, and Brunello certainly displayed some typicite, these wines were all fundamentally rather similar. So, as a learning experience, I'm not sure how successful it was. But, all the wines were excellent and well-received, and we had a lot of fun - and that's the kind of success that really counts!
And it so happens that just two weeks later (6/9/12), I had a seriously good Chianti:
Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico 2005
No formal notes taken unfortunately, but this was full of dark, rich, savory fruit, with tobacco, gravelly earth, and herbs, and some orange rind. Tremendous depth and class here, and at times could pass for a Brunello, and an excellent one at that. Whereas 2005 is not a completely successful vintage, here is an example of all of its strengths, but none of its weaknesses. Very, very well done. This is the best Chianti I have ever had. ****