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WTN: Italian reds - Chianti, Alto Adige, Friuli, and Puglia

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Andrew Bair

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WTN: Italian reds - Chianti, Alto Adige, Friuli, and Puglia

by Andrew Bair » Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:50 pm

2008 Cantele Salice Salentino DOC Riserva
85% Negroamaro/15% Malvasia Nera. Nose of dark berries and spices. Full-bodied, balanced, smooth, with moderate acidity; more modern in style. Lightly meaty, with notes of baked dark fruits, currants, smoke, and asphalt. Good/very good; nice QPR for $11.

2005 Domini Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva
95% Sangioveto/5% Canaiolo.
Nose of earth, plums, white pepper, and baking spices. Moderately full-bodied, round, rather creamy, nicely structured, with somewhat spicy tannins; nicely balanced, with good underlying acidity. Shows bright cherry flavors, along with notes pomegranates, minerals, and earth. Some tar and blood orange on the finish. Excellent.

2002 Azienda Agricola Le Due Terre Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC Merlot
The name “Le Due Terre” refers to the two distinct types of soil found on this property, clay and marl. It could just as easily refer to a combination of Old and New World influences, as this Merlot successfully combines noninterventionist winemaking with barrique aging in such a way that the sense of place is still obvious in the glass.
Opened approximately 3 ½ hours before pouring. Nose of dark fruits, earth, pencils, and coconut. Full-bodied, moderately round, smooth, dry, nicely balanced, with moderate acidity; lightly spicy/vaguely grainy tannins. Quite clayey and mineral, it tastes of plums, currants, baking chocolate, and some herbs. Completely different from any other Merlot that I’ve ever had, this still has quite a bit of life ahead. Excellent.

2000 Alois Lageder Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Adige DOC Cor Römigberg
From a single vineyard near Lake Caldaro; contains some Petit Verdot. Nose of dark berries, currants, earth, spices, and leafy herbs. Full-bodied, round, just slightly sweet; well balanced, with moderate acidity, smooth tannins, and well-integrated oak. Slightly raisiny; tastes of crème de cassis, black cherries, green bell peppers, tar, and dark chocolate. Almost at its peak now, and should be able to last several more years. Very good/excellent; an attractive, more internationally styled Cab from a region that I don’t really associate much with this grape; though Trentino has had some successes with Cabernet and Bordeaux blends (Eugenio Rosi, Tenuta San Leonardo). More recent vintages of this wine are now under the Tenutae Lageder label.

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