by Salil » Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:38 pm
Just adding on my broader thoughts here...
I also thought that the 2011s for the most part reminded me of the German 07s - generally ripe, friendly and fruit forward, though lacking that acid edge to take them from good to great. There was no such thing as Kabinett, and I thought the strongest wines were either the trockens/feinherb styled wines, or the bigger sweet wines to make a broad generalization.
Various impressions from the tables/lineups poured:
Mosel:
AJ Adam: Incredibly disappointing. Not a huge sample, mostly at the low end but what I tasted was fairly dull and thick. The Kabinett, which I've loved in some past years, was just boring.
Selbach-Oster: Incredibly consistent again, from the dry wines through the Auslese. The feinherb Riesling, Rotlay and Zeltinger Schlossberg Auslese stood out in particular.
Willi Schaefer: The Himmelreich Kabinett didn't thrill me, but both wines from the Domprobst (Kabinett and Spatlese #10) were excellent, despite being served a bit warm.
Vols: Really intriguing wines. They were challenging to taste, two bottles were a bit warm and most showed quite a lot of sulfur, but I found the wines very nicely balanced with restrained sweetness - stylistically very similar to Peter Lauer (and from the same soil - Ayler Kupp and Schoenfels). Good acidity, refreshment value and freshness. I'll keep an eye out for these.
Meulenhof: Very, very fine wines across the board. The Erdener Treppchen Spatlese #11 (one-star) and the Alte Reben Auslese were both outstanding, and the rest of the wines were wonderful - rich and fruit forward, but perfectly balanced with lots of depth and freshness.
Christoffel: Hit and miss - I liked the freshness and vibrancy in the Erdener Treppchen Spatlese, but the Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese and Auslese one-star were both completely boring.
Nahe:
Donnhoff: Superb as David said. Both GGs and the Kirschheck Spatlese were outstanding.
Jakob Schneider: Table of the tasting for me (for sweet wines). Liked the Hermannshohle Spatlese trocken and the Kertz feinherb Riesling. The Hermannshohle Spatlese was a fireworks display; exotic, floral and spicy with lots of ripe peach and red fruit. The BA was freaking stellar - incredibly rich, pure and intense with amazing intensity, richness, great balance and a finish that meant I couldn't taste anything else for about 10 minutes afterwards.
Kruger-Rumpf: The Rieslings didn't excite me much, but I found both the Scheurebe Spatlese and Auslese very good. There were a couple of big sweet wines as well - Riesling BA and TBA that were very impressive, but not up to the level of the otherworldly Schneider BA.
Schlossgut Diel: Just tried the Goldloch Spatlese which was its usual self - very opulent, rich and packed with luscious ripe fruit and florality, wonderfully balanced but at twice the price of Schneider/etc, I'm not a buyer.
Rheingau:
Leitz: Excellent and very consistent across the board. The dry wines were very fine, nicely balanced with good richness and depth, and the Roseneck Spatlese was spectacular - by some distance the best Spatlese I encountered at the tasting.
Spreitzer: Up and down for me - I found the trockens a little disappointing, both a little severe, but the Winkeler Jesuitengarten Spatlese was excellent - rich, floral and exotic with good acidity and balance. The '303' Oestreicher Lenchen Spatlese was a little too much - immensely ripe and dense, like a big Auslese but for me lacking the acidity to balance the sheer density and sweetness.
Didn't try much from the Pfalz, just a Muskateller feinherb and Scheurebe from Messmer, both of which were very pleasant but not particularly exciting.
Austria:
Nikolaihof: One of the tables of the tasting for me, though all the wines that really had my jaw dropping were from older vintages. The '11s seemed a bit rich, but the 2010 Im Weingebirge Gruner Smaragd was excellent - incredibly polished, focused and long with lots of green herbal/verdant Gruner character. The 2009 Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd was excellent - vividly stony and saline with very pure, precise fruit flavours and good depth, and the 2008 Steiner Hund is outrageous. Jawdroppingly amazing. The 1995 Vinothek was also very good (though shockingly young and showing barely any development), and I also really enjoyed the 2005 TBA (blend of Riesling, Gruner and various other white grapes around the estate) which had a surprisingly refreshing acid spine beneath all the sweetness and botrytis.
Brundlmayer: The Extra Brut Sekt hurt - I mean HURT to taste. Send that over to the folk who drink old German trockens for the macho factor. The rest of the wines were generally very good; both the 2007 Sekt and the NV Brut Rosé were lovely, and the two older Gruners - 07 Alte Reben and the 08 Lamm - wowed me.
Hirsch and Hiedler were both solid without anything standing out.
Two of the Alzinger Gruners were poured - I was delighted to see the Muhlpoint Federspiel under screwcap, but disappointed to see it had none of that green verdant Gruner character, though it was very elegant. The Muhlpoint Smaragd was a step up, showing more depth and layers - ripe fruit and minerality accented with fresh herbal/vegetal overtones, conveyed with that typical Alzinger lightness.
Couple of other broad vintage generalizations - I'm surprised how little Gruner character a lot of the 2011 GVs showed. I'm a huge fan of the greener bean/vegetal/herbal elements in Gruner, but very few GVs showed that aspect. At every Austrian table I visited, the 2011 Rieslings were much more interesting and enjoyable than the Gruner counterparts.
I also wasn't particularly excited by most of the Champagnes that were poured - the ones with a lot of 2008 juice in the blend all came across with a lot of malic tartness that showed on the back end, and seemed rather severe.
Shortlist of Rieslings I'm definitely looking to buy after that tasting:
2008 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve
2011 Jakob Schneider Niederhauser Hermannshohle Beerenauslese (and probably some of the Spatlese too)
2011 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Alte Reben Auslese
2011 Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Spatlese
2011 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Kabinett and Spatlese