... or is it 'Kabinetten'? Anyway, here are the first two German Rieslings that I have had from the 2011 vintage, along with another wine that I opened recently after reading some others' critical notes. Emrich-Schönleber is one of my favorite German producers - I am lamenting the fact that recent vintages are getting harder to find in Massachusetts - but this 2004 Kabinett was a disappointment as far as their wines usually go. It is hard to imagine a merely decent wine from Dönnhoff, except in a particularly poor year. I do not care for the fact that E-S and some other VDP producers no longer vineyard-designate their Kabinetts, but this example will not help me make my case for this most underrated Pradikat.
2011 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett
Haven’t had much from Christoffel in a while. Floral/spicy nose. Medium-bodied, roundish, well balanced, with moderate acidity; shows apple, citrus, mineral, and spice notes. Very good.
2011 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
It was fun to try the Treppchen side by side with the Würzgarten, and compare two Kabinetts from the same producer and vintage. This one was more closed on the nose, showing just a bit of lightly smoky minerality. Slightly fuller and rounder than the Würzgarten, well balanced, with moderate acidity. Displays lime, apple, red berry, and mineral flavors. Very good; I’m undecided which one of these two I prefer overall, but like the Würzgarten a bit more to drink right now.
2004 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Kabinett
Medium gold color. Light to medium-bodied, mineral, but without the freshness or cut that I would have anticipated. Actually, it seems a bit flat in places; 9.5% alcohol may be the culprit. Tastes surprisingly mature honey/caramel, tropical fruits, golden apples. Good, certainly quite drinkable, though definitely not up to this producer’s usual standards. I had the 2004 E-S Frühlingsplätzchen Spätlese a few years ago, and it was much better.