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WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

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WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Ryan M » Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:07 am

On Saturday (Jun 16) a bunch of incredibly gracious and generous forumites came to my place, to have one last fling before I go off to glamorous (and good-wine-shop-impoverished) South Dakota next month. Before I say anything else, I want to say a deep, warm, and heartfelt thank you to everyone who attended. It was such a great pleasure to host you all at my place, and I think everyone had a great time, including my wife. It was also a great pleasure to introduce the out-of-towners to Restaurant Tallent. What a great day! And what amazing lineup of wines - probably the strongest lineup I've ever had.

We kicked off with head-and-shoulders the best Sancerre I've had, which JuliaB brought just for Sam Platt, who hates Sancerre :lol:. Although it seems both he and I finally found a Sancerre to like. Nice then to get to follow that up with an exceptional Pouilly-Fume, which in the end I believe was the clear favorite.

Louis Laurent, Sancerre 2010
Subtle but good nose, with grapefruit, bell pepper, hint of flowers, stone fruits, and smokey mineral/stone. Grapefruit, apple juice, citrus rind, creamy pear, peach, a hint of nectar, flinty mineral. Lighter but nice body, not a lot of aromatic personality, but nice creaminess. Certainly the best Sancerre I've had. Drink over the next 3 years. ***

Regis Minet, Vielle Vignes, Pouilly-Fume 2007
Lovely nose of white flowers, orange, stone fruits, smokey mineral/stone, and grass/bell pepper/herbs. Similar on the palate, pleasantly tart, and zippy, with grapefruit, ripe fruits, deep citrus rind, floral nectar, excellent, persistent body, great depth, excellent finish. Improved greatly on day two. With its depth, balance, and lively acidity, this can go another 5 years or more. Very, very nice. ***

Next a very fine 1er Cru Chassagne. Many a night of wine drinking I'd have been thrilled to stop there, and yet this was just the starting lineup.

Louis Latour, Morgeot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2006
Ripe, rich fruit, apricot, zesty pear, creamy, buttery, flowers, mineral. Prominent acidity. Excellent. Can go another 10 years. ***1/2

And here finally I get to try a Lopez de Heredia. What an awesome and unique wine. Thanks Josh!

Lopez de Heredia, Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva, Rioja 1996
My first Lopez Heredia, and what and experience! Awesome nose! Burnished and with some oxidized notes, with apricot, raspberry, tropical fruits, and hint of something like banana. Awesome body!!! Intense, dense, citrus and deep citrus rind, apricot, and mineral, with notes of caramel, and herbs. Fat texture. Wow!!! Only thing I've had that even compares is Musar Blanc. Won't appeal to everybody though. It seems this can go another 20 - 30 years. ****

After that I had a taste of the remarkable Slovak Muscat Moravsky I posted on a few months ago. No notes, but just as delightful and excellent as before. I didn't get a sense of what everyone thought, except that it was interesting. Next, a singularly awesome Loire rose. Thanks Mark!

Bernard Baudry, Chinon Rose, Chinon 2010
Amazing body for a rose! Dark cherry, and blackberry, with strawberry, mineral, and herbs. Wow. Best rose I've ever had. ***1/2

And now on to the reds. Any other night, and a Burgundy like this would surely have been a finale. Thanks Sam and LuAnn! Could it still get better from here?

Gerard Raphet, Chambolle-Musigny 2002
Rich, intense black cherry, black raspberry, with Chambolle's softer strawberry notes, and glycerin. Wonderful undertones of leather, earth and mineral. A captivating Burgundy. 20 more years? ****

And get better it did! Compliment of Mark, one of my favorite Bordeaux's ever, and a wine that just amazed us all with its 20-something youth at age 46. My WOTN. Thank you, thank you, thank you Mark!

Chateau Calon-Segur, St. Estephe 1966
Unbelievable color: medium garnet, could be a 20 year old! On the nose, leather, dusty earth (St Estephe, no mistake), cassis, black cherry, sweet red fruits, glycerin. Awesome mature Bordeaux nose! Similar on the palate, with awesomely succulent fruits, prominent acid structure and freshness, tannins still very much present, some chalk and spice, cocoa powder. Phenomenal. The greatest fully mature Bordeaux I've had, and a memorable treat. I dare say this still has 10 more years ahead of it. And the last few drops were still sound and more than pleasant the next day (in the recorked bottle). *****

Surely anything would seem a slacker after that, right? Not so this one. Thanks Mike and Cindy!

Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere, St. Emilion 2003
Wonderful 2003 nose, but with great tone. Tobacco, wood, gravel, black raspberry, and hints of roasted rosemary, and graphite; the nose could almost pass for Pauillac. Similar on the palate, rich and succulent, with stoney mineral/earth, cocoa, and formidable tannins. Very impressive, an example of 2003 Bdx done right. 20 years or more ahead. ****

Now, some people though this was at an unfortunate place in the lineup, but I loved it and thought it was a nice transition top the Italians that followed, and certainly it convinced everyone of what Israeli has to offer. Here's to you, dear Rogov.

Galil Mountain, Yiron, Galilee 2007
Nice, aromatic but low key nose, with prominent notes of white pepper and juicy dark fruit. On the nose and palate, a personality of tobacco, blueberry, cassis, bright red fruits, herbs, and earth, with dried rose petal aromatics. Juicy, with Mediterranean acid balance and personality. I like it a lot. 5 more years. 62% Cab Sauv, 31% Merlot, 7% Syrah. Kosher ***1/2

Brunello sings to my heart and soul like no other red, and this was a lovely one. Thank you very much Josh!

La Rasina, Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Lovely Brunello nose of black raspberry, black cherry, orange, herbs, tobacco, and gravelly earth. Similar on the palate, with lovely, succulent body, graceful and feminine. Wonderful citrusy acid balance, earth, gravelly depth, perhaps a hint of tar, and tobacco leaf. Lovely. My limited experience with 2004 suggests this wine is typical of the vintage. 10 more years. ****

A very nice and interesting pair these two, as to me they seem to have been "gender swapped." I think there was a range of opinion on which one was liked more - unless you talk to Julia. :) Viva la difference! But I'd have a hard time choosing.

Aldo Conterno, Barolo 2004
On the nose, nice orangey/cherry acidity, forest floor, and sweet mushroom. On the palate, orange rind, cherry, mushroom, and mineral. The feminine side of Barolo, but still has the dark fruit and structure. A thoroughly pleasurable wine. Probably not going to evolve further, but can hold at this level 5 more years, confirmed by the impressive soundness and attractiveness of the last drops left in the bottle the next morning. ***1/2

Pio Cesare, Il Bricco, Barbaresco 2000
Great nose. On the nose and palate, a personality of chocolate, leather, black cherry, blackberry, tar, hints of mushroom, and cocoa. Intense and structured. A masculine Barbaresco. Wonderful. 10 more years. ****

How nice to get to revisit the first Pegau I ever had. I could never have enough Pegau. Thanks Julia!

Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee, Chateauneuf du Pape 2001
Classic Pegau. Black olive, black raspberry, blueberry, grilled meat, cocoa, mineral. Wonderful. 5 - 10 years left to go. ****

And to finish off, compliments of Bill Morgan, about the only thing that could follow a Chateaneuf. Wonderful way to finish the lineup, although I admit that at this point I was well into palate fatigue.

Masi, Costasera, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2003
Intense dark fruit, blackberries, herbs, with black undertones (not tar, not earth, just pure . . . . blackness - the signature of Amarone for me), but also with surprisingly bright notes of plum, and orangey acidity. Atypical, and more classically Italianate than most Amarones, but still with all of structure, intensity, and dark notes. Ageworthy. 5 - 10 years or more ahead of it. ****

Next it was off to an of course amazing dinner at Restaurant Tallent. There a bottle of G de Guiraud, Bordeaux 2009 - no notes, but ripe, herbal, deep, and zesty; a perfectly nice 2008 Raspail-Ay Gigondas, which was actually lighter but more elegant than one usually expects (definitely the modest vintage showing there), and a 2007 Emilio Moro Ribera del Deuro, which was quite impressive, but at that point I was worn out.

Well, there you have it folks, one of the most delightful wine events I been privileged enough to be a part of. Thank you all so much again! Good wine, food, and company await you all on your next trip though South Dakota.
Last edited by Ryan M on Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Howie Hart » Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:02 am

Ryan, I wish I could have made it, but the fates conspired against my attending. Good luck on the move and new position.
Chico - Hey! This Bottle is empty!
Groucho - That's because it's dry Champagne.
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Ryan M » Mon Jun 18, 2012 9:43 am

Howie Hart wrote:Ryan, I wish I could have made it, but the fates conspired against my attending. Good luck on the move and new position.


Howie, we'd have loved to have you here. But you were here in spirit - or in bottle at least - you gem of a man you. Once again you have outdone yourself in generosity - I am very thrilled, grateful, and proud to have that bottle of Bordertown. It has gone into the cellar, to be saved for tasting against a good Pomerol. Bless you Howie!
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by JC (NC) » Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:03 pm

I've had very impressive village Chambolle-Musigny from two different producers in 2002 vintage. Was 2002 considered an outstanding Burgundy vintage in general?
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Ryan M » Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:07 pm

JC (NC) wrote:I've had very impressive village Chambolle-Musigny from two different producers in 2002 vintage. Was 2002 considered an outstanding Burgundy vintage in general?


Someone else can probably answer better than I, but at the time they were released, I think it was touted as very strong vintage.
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Sam Platt » Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:05 pm

Ryan,

Thank you for the excellent notes, and thanks to you and your wife for the outstanding hospitality. Mark's '66 Calon-Segur was definitely a treat among treats, but there was not a slacker in the bunch. Julia's Sancerre was definitely the BEST Sancerre that I have ever tasted. If I am ever forced to... er... have the opportunity to taste Sancerre again I would want it to be a Laurent. Just kidding Julia. :)

It was also great to see some old faces and meet some new ones. The attendees were incredibly generous as they always are at these events. Tallent is highly recommended to anyone who finds themselves in or near Bloomington. The food was great, the service was outstanding, and the price was quite reasonable.

Best wishes in South Dakota, Ryan.

Thanks again.
Sam

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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Sam Platt » Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:21 pm

JC,

I have been buying '02 Burgs because I find them to be ripe, approachable and affordable. The Raphet Chambolle-Musigny is the first Nuits that I have opened. As alluded to in Ryan's note it was quite lush and intense. I plan to snap up more of the '02's as I find them.

The '02 Burg vintage did receive generally solid reviews.
Sam

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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Jenise » Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:33 pm

What a fantastic line-up of wines, and what a great way to send you off to So Dakota. Hope all goes well with the rest of the move.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by JuliaB » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:39 pm

Ryan,
Thank you for a delightful time on Saturday. It was so nice to meet your charming wife and adorable children. When your daughter announced that she's going to be a scientist when she grows up, I knew the apple didn't fall too far from the tree!
Quite the wine line-up, wasn't it?! It was a close call but I believe the Calon-Segur '66 was my WOTN, as well. The Chinon Rose' was brilliant...it's difficult to stop;so many wonderful bottles.
Any opportunity to get together with the WLDGers if one worth taking. Great to see Sam and Luann Platt, Mark Lipton, Mike and Cindy Hughes again, as well as meeting your local wine friends.

Your recommendation to dine at Tallent Restaurent was spot on! Such a good time. Best to you and your family for good times in South Dakota. Make a wish on the next shooting star that we'll have the chance to this again! :wink:

Thanks again, Ryan!
JB
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Joshua Kates » Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:58 pm

Yes, Ryan,

Thanks so much for your organizing and hosting of the event, and, as usual, your wonderful notes. The wines and food (provencal meat pie!) were indeed a treat: the '66 Calon-Segur, but also the '03 Canon-La Gaffeliere, a well-balanced, complex substantial wine that renewed a rather dormant interest in Bordeaux.
Best of all, however, was meeting so many people whose posts I have only read here--perhaps I'll see some of you again at MoCool, if I can make it.

And, indeed, good luck to you Ryan with your move; we look forward to seeing you back here in the Midwest and Bloomington when you visit.

Best,
Josh
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by MikeH » Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:40 pm

Ryan, thanks so much for hosting Cindy and I. We enjoyed meeting your wife and kids and local wine buddies.

As others have noted, the wines were superb. Everyone really stepped up and brought great juice to share. And the restaurant was wonderful....I already recommended it to someone else!

Best wishes for a safe journey west....and good luck in the next phase of your life!!! Perhaps will see you at Mocool in the future! But if you get back to Bloomington, give a shout on here.
Cheers!
Mike
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by MikeH » Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:41 pm

Joshua Kates wrote:Yes, Ryan,

Thanks so much for your organizing and hosting of the event, and, as usual, your wonderful notes. The wines and food (provencal meat pie!) were indeed a treat: the '66 Calon-Segur, but also the '03 Canon-La Gaffeliere, a well-balanced, complex substantial wine that renewed a rather dormant interest in Bordeaux.
Best of all, however, was meeting so many people whose posts I have only read here--perhaps I'll see some of you again at MoCool, if I can make it.

And, indeed, good luck to you Ryan with your move; we look forward to seeing you back here in the Midwest and Bloomington when you visit.

Best,
Josh


Joshua, nice meeting you and your wife. Thanks for bringing the Heredia....different and tasty! I hope we see you at MoCool!!
Cheers!
Mike
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Anders Källberg » Thu Jun 21, 2012 2:35 am

A bit too far away for me to attend, but I'm glad you all had such a good time and wish you all the best in your new position!
/Anders
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Mark S » Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:52 pm

Sounds like a grand time you folks had. I'm assuming from your comparison with Musar blanc that the Tondonia is the bianco?
Those Are cool wines. And if it's any consolation, even in SD you'll still be living in "flyover " country, so it's almost like living back in Indiana :wink:
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Ryan M » Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:26 pm

Mark S wrote:I'm assuming from your comparison with Musar blanc that the Tondonia is the bianco?


Yes, it was the blanco - thanks for pointing out that a distinction was needed - I'll add it to the note.

And if it's any consolation, even in SD you'll still be living in "flyover " country, so it's almost like living back in Indiana :wink:


Being a Midwesterner, I'm actually quite content - except that I'm going to have to go to lengths to get good wine. But if you think for a moment that SD is more or less equivalent to Indiana . . . . you east coasters don't get out much, do you? :wink:
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Sam Platt » Thu Jun 21, 2012 3:01 pm

Being a Midwesterner, I'm actually quite content - except that I'm going to have to go to lengths to get good wine. But if you think for a moment that SD is more or less equivalent to Indiana . . . . you east coasters don't get out much, do you?

I remember seeing a cartoon titled “A New Yorker's Map of the States” which had a gigantic “New York City” on the east coast, a very small center of the country labeled “Farms”, a large Florida to the south labeled “Miami” and a very large “California” on the west coast. I met a New Yorker at an airport many years ago who, on learning that I was from Indiana, asked me how much corn I planted. I wish I would have had the presence of mind to ask him which mob family he was a member of.
Sam

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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Ryan M » Thu Jun 21, 2012 3:33 pm

Sam Platt wrote:I remember seeing a cartoon titled “A New Yorker's Map of the States” which had a gigantic “New York City” on the east coast, a very small center of the country labeled “Farms”, a large Florida to the south labeled “Miami” and a very large “California” on the west coast.


Something along these lines: http://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/i ... a_4403.jpg

Hey, at least they got KC on this one . . . . not Indy though.
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Joshua Kates » Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:58 pm

Yes, Mike,

It was great meeting you, Julia, Sam, Mark and everyone else. With luck. I'll make it to MoCool, though I start teaching here at IU that Monday, so it's hard to say.

I'm glad everyone enjoyed the Heredia Tondonia Blanco; I did as well. I had one of the 2001's last year in Durham, and it was still too young! Apparently, these babies need at least a good decade and a half to come around.

As I said, I was inspired by the '03 Bordeaux, as well as the Calon-Segur. Tonight, we opened an '03 Malescot St. Exupery (Margaux) as a consequence. Very good but not a great wine--not as good as the Canon-la-Gaffeliere IMHO. I'll try tp post a note in the next day or two.

Best to all,
Josh
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Ryan M » Thu Jun 21, 2012 8:55 pm

Joshua Kates wrote:As I said, I was inspired by the '03 Bordeaux, as well as the Calon-Segur. Tonight, we opened an '03 Malescot St. Exupery (Margaux) as a consequence. Very good but not a great wine--not as good as the Canon-la-Gaffeliere IMHO. I'll try tp post a note in the next day or two.


Josh, Sahara Mart has two wines I'd like to recommend to you, based on that Canon-la-Gaffeliere. I would say they aren't far off in quality. Here are the wines and my notes:

Chateau Puynormond, Vieilles Vignes, St.-Emilion 2009
Nearly opaque ruby. Excellent nose of raspberry, roses, tobacco, and chocolate. Similar notes on the palate, with ripe juicy fruit, but very tight. Full bodied, a bit astringent and acidic at this stage, but with huge potential. Very impressive, and an awesome value for under $25. Needs time, but should last for 10 - 20 years. **** [10/1/11]

Chateau Pavillon de Poyferre, St.-Julien 2005
3rd wine of Leoville-Poyferre. Wonderful, leathery, aromatic nose, with meaty dark and red fruits. Same notes on the palate, with a nice savory quality. Good prospects for the next 5 to 10 years. At $38, a bargain in serious Bordeaux. **** [11/14/11]
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by Mark Lipton » Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:59 pm

Many thanks to Ryan for organizing this event, and to all the attendees for making it such a fun offline. Joshua, it was a pleasure to meet you, and it was also wonderful to be able to chat with Mike face-to-face for once. JB and Ryan, always fun to see you all, too. As for the wines, I've only got a little to add to what's already been said.

Of the whites, the LdH blanco was for me the clear standout and my clearcut WOTN. Fascinating melange of flavors, with the usual ginger and orange peel impressions. Wow. The Baudry Rosé I've already written about, so I'll content myself with saying that it was as good as always. Of the other whites, I preferred the lush character of the Pouilly-Fumé to the restraint of the Sancerre, and the Chassagne was a bit too marked by oak at this early stage for me to be able to appreciate the rest of the package.

The reds were across the board great, with the '01 Pegau showing wonderfully (and not at all corked, Jules!) and the Barolo also doing well for an "off" vintage. I too loved the '66 Calon Segur, but I've had it before so that hardly counts. Many of the reds were a bit too young for my tastes and showing quite primary, but still exceptionally appealing for what they were. The '02 Raphet should be a thing of great beauty in due time and the '03 Canon-la-Gaffeliere was surprisingly fresh for such an overheated vintage. I should reiterate, though, that there wasn't a weak wine in the lot and every one was of interest.

I also must mention the food, which at Ryan's house was superb (caprese skewers, Provençal meat pie, good cheeses, vegetable medley) and at Tallent was exceptional, especially for the reasonable prices they charge. Thanks to everyone again for coming and making this such a great event, and best of luck to Ryan as he sets out on his grand adventure!

Mark Lipton
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Re: WTN: the Goodbye Ryan offline

by JuliaB » Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:38 pm

Mark Lipton wrote:
The reds were across the board great, with the '01 Pegau showing wonderfully (and not at all corked, Jules!)

Mark Lipton


Thank god!! But would you have told us if it was?? :wink:

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