WTN: Two from Truchot

Two utterly thrilling wines tonight with dinner.
I've been a huge fan of Jacky Truchot's Burgundies ever since David Bueker opened a bottle of the '04 Clos Sorbes for me a couple of years ago, and the two of us sat down for dinner tonight with a pair of his '04s. Dinner was solid; quail prepped three ways (first whole quails roasted with a marinade of cayenne, black pepper and lime; then quail legs and filets pan-fried; finally semi-boneless quail pan-roasted with a sauce of black trumpets and cream) with some bread and roast potatoes on the side, but the real highlights were the two Truchots opened side by side (there was also a very pleasant '97 Nigl Gruner Veltliner Piri that David brought to start the evening, but all the attention was on the Burgundy.)

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2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
Hard to put either of these wines into words, but WOW! They both have the same pale appearance, a remarkable lightness and purity of flavour, and yet amazing presence. There's just a faint green element in both wines; more a herbal accent that adds complexity rather than the more vegetal '04 greenness I've noticed in some other wines, and both show an incredible fragrance I can only describe as Truchot-esque with a spectrum of fruit, mineral, earth, leather and other savoury flavours that combine into a compelling scent. The Charmes comes across a little leaner; more red-fruited with a penetrating spine of acidity that makes itself felt with each sip and layers of earthy, sous bois and countless other savoury flavours framing the fresh raspberry and strawberry fruit. There's more richness in the Clos de la Roche but it doesn't have quite the same piercing intensity as the Charmes; the fruit's darker in complexion here - more black cherries rather than fresh red berries, and while it's not as intense initially, there's the same purity and finesse, similar depth and complexity and amazing persistence with the flavours just resonating long after each sip. Two incredible complementary wines, and a real treat to be able to sit down on a casual weekday evening and enjoy them with good company. Thanks David.

[David M. Bueker]

And thank you Salil for dinner and providing the Charmes Chambertin.

I agree that the wines were very complementary, with the Charmes showing brighter and the CdlR as the darker, perhaps richer of the two. There may have been some green on both, but it was in no way mean. The entry on the Charmes was superior, but I just fell for the finish on the Clos de la Roche. The persistence of both wines was noteworthy, especially if anyone thinks that intensity is required for length in a wine.

The Nigl was the 1997 Nigl Grüner Veltliner Piri. The last time I checked in on the wine was in 2004 (thank you CellarTracker). I would have thought another eight years would have brought evolution. I was wrong. The wine drank like it was nearly a new release. As you stated at dinner, there was little in the way of Gruner Veltliner typicity (none of the pea, cress or pepper), but more of a direct view into the foundation of the vineyard. The wine was all about minerals, with a gentle, wafting citrus overtone. this particular bottling has always been on the austere side, so no surprises there, but I really was looking for age to have done something, anything to the wine.