WTN: Loire Chenin versus Sauvignon

Personally I have a strong preference for the Chenin derived whites from Touraine and Anjou over the Sauvignon based ones from "le Centre", i.e. the upper reaches of the Loire and its tributaries. I find that Chenin confers more class, complexity, versatility and capacity for ageing gracefully. The only Sauvignon exception in my experience concerns the Sancerre from the estates of the Cotat (I think) cousins, François and Pascal, which can age for decades and acquire a refinement which is rare with this grape. (I am not a big fan of the much hyped Alphonse Mellot and late Didier Dagueneau.)

Last week I opened a Vouvray (Chenin) from Foreau and a Sancerre (Sauvignon) from Pascal Cotat but on this occasion the Cotat was not as good as some I have had in the past, notably some 1996s from François.

Sancerre La Grande Côte 2004 – Pascal Cotat, Chavignol – Alc.12.5%. I had been expecting more from this wine. Colour was deepening and the nose showed mineral and white fruit touches with a honeyed undertow. The palate was medium bodied and not quite bone dry with quite a lot of refinement of fruit, lively acidity and mineral hints but without the tension and liveliness of youth and the complexity that both Cotat estates often achieve on their mature wines. Perhaps the pairings, first maatje herrings and then a “tian de sardines” did the wine no favours and I had no Crottin de Chavignol to hand which should have been ideal; 15.5/20.

Vouvray sec 2000 – Domaine du Clos Naudin, Philippe Foreau – Alc.13%. Colour was a quite deep yellow and the nose showed attractive aromas of wax, fine minerals and white fruit with the usual touch of quince. The palate was bone dry and medium bodied with crisp acidity and a lot of nervous tension in counterpoint to the aromas which continued from the nose and to some rounder and warmer undertones. Length was good and the finish was quite structured with saline notes. A year ago, I found a bottle too tense and crisp to be ideal but this time it suited the pairing (haddock, smoked salmon steak and shrimps) and my mood perfectly; 17/20.

well, sure, as long as you are comparing older wines, chenin has the clear edge. imo, sauvignon isn't for aging except in some oak aged versions from bordeaux. but young sauvignon from the centre is one creature and young or mature chenin is another - apples and oranges. i can't think of a single food that would be equally good with young sauvignon and any chenin; but plenty that would be wonderful with one or the other but not either. you are comparing the worst version of sauvignon - older - with the best version of chenin - older.

you are comparing the worst version of sauvignon - older - with the best version of chenin - older.

In many vintages both Cotats' Sancerres are an exception to that generalisation about Sauvignon's mediocre ageing . Have you tried them with some age?

And very young Vouvray can be delicious, e.g. Huet's 2010s right now and Blot's 2008 a couple of years ago.

Bravo, Tim! Let's hear it for young Huet secs. The standard cant is it' a shame to drink 'em young. No, it's a pleasure. Sure, they are elegant after a decade or so (with some naps inbetween), so put some aside. But that's no reason not to enjoy them while they are young.