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WTN: Some recent wines

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Arnt Egil Nordlien

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WTN: Some recent wines

by Arnt Egil Nordlien » Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:58 am

While writing more notes from our holiday it is time to sum up some wines consumed lately with dinner.

Torgiano Rubesco 1967, Lungarotti
Red colour with brown rim. Surprisingly young colour. Earthy and lightly aged complexity. Still quite a lot primary fruit-elements like cherries and citrus, some nuts and flowers. Medium bodied in the mouth. Lighter than expected. The fruit probably started to fade a little, but still plenty left. Fruity and earthy elements with hints of nuts. Fine acids and long acidic finish. Not much tannins. Very fine food-wine. This was very good indeed, but lacking a little in depth and complexity. Drink up now.

Barolo 1967, G.Fassio
Deep brick-red colour. Healthy looking with red core and brown rim. Fine nose of tar, old woods, dust, some anise and floral high notes. Fullbodied wine in the mouth, but with low concentration for this grape. Quite high acids and some tannins in the back. Highly traditional style and fine aromas. But lacking complexity. Good length. Fine, but no great mature Barolo to drink now.

Mertert Herrenberg riesling 1998, Domaine Aly Duhr , Moselle, Luxembourg
Yellow/green colour. Fine nose with hints of petrol, earth, flowers. Dry and somewhat mature riesling in the mouth. Quite slim and elegant style, but with fairly high acidity. Fine fruit; flowers, some earth and petrol. Grapefruit in the finish. Medium concentration. Good length. Enjoyable riesling and a good foodwine.

Ahn Palmberg riesling 1996, Domaine Aly Duhr , Moselle, Luxembourg
Yellow colour. Nose shows cold stones, sweet flowers. With air it shows more mineral notes and some depth. Medium bodied wine in the mouth. Quite slim and mineral fruit with hints of slate, but with some sweet flowery notes and quite round acids. Medium concentration. With time this shows quite nice mineral depth. Good length. Still a bit on the young side, but drinking nicely with an hour of airing. Good.

Trarbacher Hühnerberg kabinett 1979, Erik Gerhardt
Brown colour. Complex nose with lots of oxidized, dried fruits. Apricot, citrus, old wood, nuts, even salt. Not at all unlike an old fino. In the mouth this is rather off-dry in style. The sweetness mostly gone by now. But with a little fatness in front that tells you it has been there. Still lot of fruit, but oxidized notes. Nutty, old woody, some apricot. Good acidic backbone, typical of this vintage. Long citrusy finish.
Judged as a sherry-like wine I can find some really nice things in this bottle. It is complex still with lots of fruit. But it's faults are very obvious by now.

Vouvray Clos du Bourg moelleux 2002, S.A. Huet
Yellow colour. Very fine nose. Lightly complex. Hints of sweet flowers, anise, wool, mineral. Fullbodied wine in the mouth. Round style of chenin blanc with a light sweetness. Fine fruit, good concentration. Complex and typical Vouvray with flowers, anise, wool. Some citrus and salt in the finish. Fine acids and length. This is a very fine Vouvray indeed. Still young and primary, but very tempting to drink now. Great for the price.

Vouvray brut 1999, S.A. Huet
Yellow colour, medium mousse. Nose shows chalk, wool and some honey. Fullbodied sparkling-wine in the mouth with more fruit and fat than normal for a Champagne. Fruity, with hints of honey and wool. Some chalk. Dry, with good acidic backbone. Good length. A very good sparkling Vouvray with much fruit, but too simple and fruity compared to a Champagne.

Tokaj 4 putnovy 1993, J.J.Ostrozovic , Tokaj, Slovakia
From the slovak part of Tokaj. Copper colour, some green hues. Spicy nose with hints of marsipan, orange-peel, citrus, honey, old wood. Complex and typical. In the mouth this is not the most intence and powerful Tokaj with a little less sweetness than the what you normally find in Tokaj. Still a sweet wine with medium concentration of fine fruit. Quite pure and typical. A little rustic. Some evolvement in the fruit. Marsipan and orange-peel most obvious. Very high acidity. Cleansing and gives the wine a long citrusy finish. Fine Tokaj indeed, but perhaps a little smaller scaled.

Neuburger Ried Burgberg/Spitz smaragd 1988, Freie Weingärtner Wachau
Yellow colour. Shy and a bit earthy nose. Some floral and mineral elements, but rather shy. I ended up switching glass; from the Riedel sommelier bordeaux to the Riedel Vinum burgundy-glass. This worked a lot better. The nose showed a lot more depth and intensity. Earth, fine floral and herbal hints and fine minerality. In the mouth this was a mature and slim neuburger smaragd with slight fat up front. Fine fruit, mature now. Floral and mineral hints. Fine acids and medium length. I found this very fine indeed. Caroline was not so positive.

Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte silvaner trocken 2004, Weingut Lützkendorf
Straw colour. With air this developed a fine nose; herbal, yet fruity. More red than white. Mostly like wild strawberries and with fine hints of chalk. In the mouth this was a medium bodied and dry silvaner with fine concentration for a QbA. Quite a lot of chalk and herbal notes. Quite elegant. Fine acids and length. Fine foodwine. Very good silvaner QbA indeed. Drinking very fine now and good for the price.

Chianti Classico Riserva Villa Antinori 1979, Antinori
Deep brick-red colour. Fine nose with hints of leather, cherries, oak and some floral notes. Fullbodied and still fruity Chianti in the mouth made in the modern style. Still a lot of cherries and primary fruit and obvious oak. Hints of leather. Hints of herbs in the finish. Fine acids and still some tannins in the back. Modern made wine that has lasted well, but not too exciting style.

Grüner Veltliner Kremser Kremsleiten spätlese 1976, Winzer Krems
Golden colour. Nose shows hints of roasted dark bread, old woods, mushrooms, some botrytis, underneath some fine floral notes and minerals. Fine and complex nose, but not so "pure". In the mouth this is fullbodied in style. Quite dry now, slight sweetness. Fruit shows some botrytis and is a bit heavy and rustic. Medium to low acids with some orange in the finish. Good more than great wine that has kept well and developed a nice complexity.

Traiser Rotenfels riesling spätlese 1989, Hans Crusius
Yellow colour. Evolved nose with hints of petrol, forest floor, citrus, fine floral notes. Also some botrytis. Lightly sweet in the mouth, but refreshing acids for an '89. Fine fruits, evolved with fine hints of forest floor creeping in with some petrol. Some heavier notes of honey and botrytis is also evident. Fine acids and length. Good length. Drinks nicely now, but will probably gain with another 2-3 years in the cellar.

Meerlust Rubicon 1992, Meerlust Estate , Stellenbosch, South-Africa
Tight brick-red colour. Fine nose with hints of oak, tobacco, blackcurrant, stable, some red berries. Concentrated and powerful Bordeaux-copy in the mouth. Soft style, but fine fruit. Decent acids. The tannins gives a bit powdery feel which I don't like so much. But the aromas in this wine is very nice indeed. Still quite primary and will last. Good.
Last edited by Arnt Egil Nordlien on Mon Nov 06, 2006 6:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: Som recent wines

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Nov 06, 2006 6:17 am

Arnt, I noted your word wool with the Vouvray descriptors.? Can you enlighten a bit please!!
BTW, have you seen the 2nd hand tasting thread here?Good fun eh, have a go!!
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Arnt Egil Nordlien

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Re: Som recent wines

by Arnt Egil Nordlien » Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:25 am

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Arnt, I noted your word wool with the Vouvray descriptors.? Can you enlighten a bit please!!


I find what I describe as wool a typicity of the chenin blanc-grape - at least from the Loire. It's the same smell you can find in a sweater made of pure wool.

I am not sure I can describe it closer, so hope this makes sense.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Som recent wines

by David M. Bueker » Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:48 am

Wool is a common aromatic reference for Loire Chenin. I've picked up on it as well.
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Re: Som recent wines

by robs_r » Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:17 am

Hello Arnt!

I am pretty amazed about your note for the Rubesco. 1967! I had this little wine this summer in Umbria and thought that it was pretty ok for the price (about 6Euro).
Obviously something changed in the wine making for the Rubesco in the last 40 years!

BTW, I enjoyed your notes on the old Austrians.

Regards, Robert
Robert Ruzitschka
Vienna, Austria
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Arnt Egil Nordlien

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Re: Som recent wines

by Arnt Egil Nordlien » Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:52 am

Thanks Rob

I too were surprised that the Rubesco '67 had held up so nicely. But remember this bottle has been extremely well stored. Passive cellar at low temperature since release until a few months before I drank it. I have had many bottles from this source aand all have tasted 10 years younger than I would guess.

Still there is no doubt they make the Rubesco in a more accessible style for younger drinking nowadays.

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