Here are two classy wines from Southern France both of which showed a lot of Mediterranean character and gave enormous pleasure in a “great” vein, without any of the heavy pomposity which often disfigures important wines in the region including, IMHO,CndP.
Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua 1996 – Domaine Tempier – Alc.13.5%. This was a lovely Bandol free of the bretty barnyard notes which are obtrusive in some Tempier bottles. On the palate the wine was medium bodied, quite long with resolved tannic support for the finish, lively acidity, some still quite fresh red fruit and notes of rose petal, leather, tar and Mediterranean herbs. The overall effect was harmonious and elegant and it was a fine pairing for lamb. Am I the only person who finds some kinship between Bandol and Barolo? 17/20.
Coteaux du Languedoc (now Terrasses du Larzac) 2003 – Mas Jullien – Alc.13.5%, made from Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault grapes. We opened this to accompany the remainder of the lamb and, if anything, it was even finer than the Bandol; slightly fuller bodied, darker but more primary in its fruit with more leather, less tar, no rose petal, a similar amount of Mediterranean herb, slightly less acidity and firmer structure. Another Mediterranean classic close to its peak which mercifully showed none of the candied notes of many 2003s; 17/20++.

