1991 Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling QbA
Depending on your point of view, 1991 was the last vintage in Germany that could be called "bad." Other nominees include 2000 and 1987, but 1991 was certainly less than optimal, unless high acid qualitatswein was the goal. The subject wine was opened by my request from the cellar of dear friend Beth Sheligo, who had been assured by Terry Theise that the wine would last for 25 years.
As is well known, the wine always has the last word.
In this case the word was "I'm not dead." Also heard was "I feel happy! I feel happy!" This 21 year old QbA from an indifferent vintage (to be kind) was splendid within certain tightly defined parameters. It was very high acid, and actually showed limited aged character. In fact it was more preserved than aged. Lemon juice squeezed on top of river rocks, with just the barest hint of back end sweetness summed up the aromas/flavors, but there was mroe to it than that. What made the wine stand out was the depth of minerality, the extract that made the finish long and compelling. The 21 year old QbA was outstanding not just for being old enough to vote and livel enough to pull off the trick, but also for how it laid bare the essential underpinnings of the Hermannshohle, going deeper than 13% trockens because the lightness carried more site character than alcohol.
Truly interesting wine in the best sense of the word.
